In Good Taste – Baltimore Magazine https://www.baltimoremagazine.com The Best of Baltimore Since 1907 Mon, 23 Dec 2024 19:02:39 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/cropped-favicon-32x32.png In Good Taste – Baltimore Magazine https://www.baltimoremagazine.com 32 32 Where to Eat Chinese Food on Christmas in Charm City https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/where-to-eat-chinese-food-on-christmas-day-baltimore/ Mon, 23 Dec 2024 18:00:00 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=65534

Hard to say how it all started, but it’s a known fact that a typical Jewish Christmas is most often celebrated over Chinese food. (Could it be that when immigrants came through Ellis Island to the Lower East Side of New York, dumpling houses were not far from the shtetl?) It’s known that many families not celebrating the holiday have a Yuletide tradition of going for Chinese food and a movie. Other cultures have even adopted the custom, too.

“It’s one of our busiest days of the year,” says Joey Chiu’s manager Mimi Yu.

It just doesn’t feel like Christmas without a plate of moo goo gai pan. Here are a few of Baltimore’s Chinese food restaurants that are open on Christmas Day:

Asian Court: For more than a decade, Howard County diners have flocked to this Cantonese restaurant—which is perhaps most beloved for its daily dim sum service. Aside from the small bites (everything from shrimp dumplings to steamed chicken feet with oyster sauce) the Turf Valley Towne Square spot offers a lengthy menu with every dish you could imagine, including steamy noodle soups, chow mein, beef with string beans, deep-fried quail, and Hong Kong-style sweet and sour ribs. 1105 Resort Rd. Ellicott City. 410-461-8388

David Chu’s China Bistro: Located adjacent to Seven Mile Market on Reisterstown Road, this certified kosher restaurant has all of the classics—from cold sesame noodles and fried chicken wings to Kung Pao chicken and Mongolian beef. There’s also a lengthy list of meatless meals, including crispy eggplant in garlic sauce, orange bean curd, and crunchy sautéed string beans. 7105 Reisterstown Rd. 410-602-5008

Grace Garden: This Odenton gem is all about authenticity. Look out for family-style portions of the signature pocket tofu, fish noodles, and tender tea-smoked duck with perfectly crisp skin. The sugary fried doughnut holes are also a must to end the meal on a sweet note. 1690 Annapolis Rd., Odenton. 410-672-3581

Joey Chiu’s Greenspring Inn: This charming restaurant, complete with chandeliers and Greenspring Valley vistas, offers everything from seafood salads to sushi boats. With a wide array of duck, pork, steak, lamb, and fish dishes, regulars frequently flock to Joey Chiu’s for special occasions. For Christmas Eve and Christmas Day carryout orders, the restaurant requests that you call three to four hours in advance. 10801 Falls Road, Lutherville. 410-823-1125

Jumbo Seafood: This Pikesville spot has been around for years, making a name for itself in the Northwestern suburbs as a go-to for diners with cravings for classic dishes and sushi rolls. As its name signifies, the portions are hefty, so don’t expect to finish without leftovers. Favorites include scallops with ginger and scallion sauce, chicken and string beans, hot and sour soup, and house-made lo-mein. 48 E. Sudbrook Lane, Pikesville. 410-602-1441

Kung Fu 12 Szechuan House: This BYOB spot in the former home of Lutherville’s Szechuan House—which now operates at 2159 York Road—boasts a menu inspired by authentic Szechuan ingredients. Start things off with orders of scallion pancakes or cheese wontons before digging in to entrees like shredded pork with spicy garlic sauce, moo shoo, or classic mapo tofu. 1427 York Road, Lutherville. 410-825-8181

New Asian Taste: Plan to stroll around Hampden’s Miracle on 34th Street lights before or after grabbing grub from this Chinese food spot—which conveniently sits across the street. With a menu spanning everything from sushi rolls and sesame balls to drunken noodles and vegan Kung Pao chicken rice bowls, there’s something to please all palates. 3400 Chestnut Ave. 410-467-0100

NiHao Baltimore: This authentic Chinese food gem in Canton—helmed by lauded chef Peter Chang—will be dishing out favorites from its full menu on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. Make a reservation or place a carryout order to chow down on the signature Peking duck, cumin spicy lamb chops, sweet and sour crispy branzino, and eggplant in a spicy garlic sauce. There are also noodle bowls, dim sum classics like gyoza and pork buns, and an array of vegan offerings.  2322 Boston St. 443-835-2036

The Orient: This Perry Hall favorite offers hearty bowls of steamy soups, crunchy egg rolls, and a pages-long list of shareable entrees. You can’t go wrong with the orange chicken, crispy beef, Mongolian pork, or lo mein noodles with mixed vegetables. 9545 Belair Rd. Nottingham. 410-256-8100

Orient Express: This St. Paul Street staple has long been a favorite of locals in the Charles Village area. The menu, which is broken down into categories such as “American Chinese Cuisine” and “Szechuan Street Food,” offers everything from sesame chicken and Kung Pao shrimp to clear noodles in chili sauce and sweet-and-sour cucumber. 3111 St. Paul St. 410-889-0003

Peter Chang Baltimore: The namesake chef’s second Charm City outpost—located near the Johns Hopkins medical campus—has quickly become a destination for dim sum, bubble tea, and a lengthy list of other vegan, seafood, and noodle dishes. Cozy up at a table or place a takeout order, but whatever you do, “do not forget dessert, here in the form of eight-treasure osmanthus sticky rice and black-sesame egg-yolk bao,” as research editor Amy Scattergood wrote in her February review. 1923 Ashland Ave. 443-888-3688

Red Pepper Sichuan Bistro: Head to this Towson hangout to carry out Sichuan dishes that fuse salty, sour, sweet, bitter, and even floral flavors. Written in both Chinese and English, the menu lists offerings like spicy hot pots, steamed chicken with chili sauce, stir-fry Shanghai cabbage, pork belly with sticky rice, and sweet-and-sour fish fillets. The owners now also operate Tea Horse Sichuan Bistro in Ellicott City, as well. 11 Allegheny Ave. Towson. 410-832-7333

Sonny Lee’s Hunan Taste: In addition to the delicious dishes, the comforting atmosphere of this beautifully decorated restaurant has made it a community stalwart for more than a decade. The service is always top-notch, and if you’re lucky enough to catch a glimpse of Sonny himself, you’ll find him making his rounds greeting guests or carving Peking duck at your table. Carryout favorites include handcrafted sushi rolls, orange beef, sizzling jumbo shrimp, and crispy Hunan soft shell crab. 750 Main St. Suite 104A, Reisterstown. 410-833-7288

Water Song Yunnan Kitchen: In Federal Hill, Water Song has become a go-to for sharable delicacies of the Yunnan province—including hot pots, vegan wontons, spicy tofu slices, and the signature Aunty Ying’s BBQ Ribs slathered in house sauce and topped with fried mint. 21 E. Cross St. 

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Spots to Satisfy Your National Doughnut Day Cravings https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/best-places-to-celebrate-national-doughnut-day/ Thu, 06 Jun 2024 13:00:00 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=24809 Continued]]> These days, it seems like there is a national holiday for everything—and doughnuts, of course, are no exception. Don’t miss your chance to to enjoy unique flavors and score some sweet doughnut deals on Friday, June 7. Read on for some of the hole-iest spots in the city:

Arundel Donuts: From truckers to churchgoers, early birds love this stalwart shack in Glen Burnie, which opens at 5:30 a.m. daily with fresh doughnuts and coffee. For more than 35 years, the family-owned shop has filled its display cases with the stars of the show—doughnuts every which way, from chocolate-glazed to strawberry frosted. (“Kinda in love,” wrote one Insta follower.) 7958 Baltimore Annapolis Blvd., Glen Burnie

Blondie’s Doughnuts: Blondie’s owner Michelle Diggs makes baked goods the old fashioned way—priding herself on her signature brioche dough recipe and classic baking techniques. The menu for the shop in Edgewater—which also pops up at the Baltimore Farmers Market on Sundays—features flavors such as apple spice, strawberry crunch, s’mores, and ‘Nana Pudding. 8 Mayo Rd., Edgewater

Deddle’s Donuts: Made-to-order minis that arrive piping hot and doused in powder sugar? Say less. The Lexington Market concept from owner Robin Holmes serves its orders of bite-sized doughnuts in varieties like Strawberry Shortcake, Oreo Smash, and Nutella Dream. If you’re a purist, you can also opt for the classic funnel cake-style. 400 W. Lexington St. 

Diablo Doughnuts: It’s practically a sin to discuss doughnuts in Charm City without mentioning this favorite, which debuted in Fells Point in 2015 and has since landed at a new home in Nottingham. Try classics like the Fruity Pebbles-crusted Unicorn Farts, cinnamon-dusted Sin Crunch, and maple bacon-topped Panty Dropper. 7698 Belair Road. Ste. 101., Nottingham

Donut Shack: At the Severna Park staple, you can find signature doughnuts topped with candied bacon or glazed with salted caramel. If you’re more of a purist, you can also try the simple honey-dipped circles. Gluten-free and vegan options are also available. Orders can be placed online or at the store, with deliveries available on weekends. 497 Ritchie Hwy., Severna Park

Dulceology Bakery: The pastry cases at this Federal Hill bakeshop are just as pretty as its pink storefront. Go early get first dibs on the Friday treats, which range from scratch-made glazed circles to filled brioche doughnuts to flaky croissant-doughnut hybrids. Favorite varieties include rose berry, vanilla glaze, and the namesake Dulce de Leche. 1138 S. Charles St. 

Fenwick Bakery: The story of this traditional bakery located in Parkville began in 1905, and their pastries just get better with age. Check out their doughnuts, from honey dipped to iced to filled, but beware: you might leave with an additional pie, cake, cookie, or loaf of bread. 7219 Harford Rd.

Harmony Bakery: Grown from humble beginnings at Waverly Farmers Market, this vegan-friendly, family-owned restaurant offers a selection of entirely gluten-free doughnuts in a cozy corner of Hampden. You can place an order of vegan varieties—including chocolate glaze and cinnamon sugar—in person or online. 3446 Chestnut Ave.

Herman’s Bakery and Catering: You know you can trust a family-owned bakery that has been around since 1923 and at its current location since 1958. The cases are filled with cookies, strawberry shortcakes, éclairs, and doughnuts, including a marshmallow-filled one that almost requires a spoon. 7560 Holabird Ave., Dundalk

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Best Fireplace Restaurants in Baltimore https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/best-fireplace-restaurants-in-baltimore/ Tue, 13 Feb 2024 19:00:00 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=17418 Continued]]> There’s nothing like a crackling fireplace to set the mood for a great winter meal. Whether you’re in search of a romantic venue for a dinner for two, or just looking for a spot to warm up with friends, here are the restaurants with the coziest fireplaces in town.

Ananda: This Maple Lawn gem features beautiful fireplaces to enhance its signature Indian farm-to-table dining experience. Whether you’re seated indoors, or outside on the terrace, the space features marble fireplaces around every corner. 7421 Maple Lawn Blvd. Fulton. 301-725-4800

The Ambassador Dining Room: Often considered one of the most romantic restaurants in town, this spot features majestic fireplaces and nattily dressed waiters serving everything from samosas to lamb vindaloo. 3811 Canterbury Rd. 410-366-1484

The Bluebird Cocktail Room: The fireplace at this dimly lit, literary-inspired Hampden hangout contributes to its overall cozy vibe. Snag an evening table to sip sophisticated drinks and fill up on snacks—like mushroom toast and frites with truffle aioli—while soaking up the dreamy ambiance. 3600 Hickory Ave. 

The Brewer’s Art: Retreat from the cold with a pint and a warm meal inside this storied Mt. Vernon brewpub—whose upstairs dining room boasts a classic wood-burning fireplace. Stare into the embers while savoring the famous mac and cheese or an order of rosemary garlic fries, served with a side of mayo. 1106 N Charles St. 410-547-6925

Cindy Lou’s Fish House: Sleek, oversized fireplaces—paired with the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Inner Harbor—make this Harbor Point restaurant an ideal spot to retreat from the cold. The Foreman Wolf establishment pairs its cozy ambiance with Southern-inspired dishes such as chicken-fried steak and a fried chicken platter with buttermilk biscuits. 1215 Wills St. 443-960-8670

Leinenkugel’s Beer Garden: The best-kept secret of this lively beer garden is its outdoor fireplace. Grab a drink, pull up an Adirondack chair, and unwind with friends at this warm spot in Power Plant Live. 4 Market Pl. 410-908-0650

The Milton Inn: Warm up with a gourmet meal in one of the many dining rooms of this historic house, featuring gas fireplaces. If you’re really looking to kick up the heat, ask to be seated in the Hearth Room and get toasty around the flickering flames. 14833 York Rd. Sparks. 410-771-4366

The Oregon Grille: This charming 19th-century farmhouse—recently reopened by Atlas Restaurant Group—has a fireplace around every corner. Whether you’re looking for a place to grab drinks with friends, or just in search of a romantic spot for a date night, the Cockeysville fixture is full of cozy character. 1201 Shawan Road. Hunt Valley. 410-771-0505

Petit Louis Bistro: From its marble accents and brick archways to its sophisticated French fare and fully stocked wine cellar, everything about this Roland Park mainstay exudes an old-school European bistro feel. Cozy up by the wood-burning fireplace to enjoy classics like French onion soup, fried eggplant Napolean, and rainbow trout amandine. 4800 Roland Ave. 410-366-9393

Poets Modern Cocktails and Eats: Complete with funky chandeliers, comfy high-back chairs, and vintage artwork, this trendy bar and lounge inside The Hotel Indigo in Mt. Vernon is a go-to spot to sip cocktails. In keeping with its literary theme, the space features built-in bookshelves surrounding its massive wood-burning fireplace. 24 W. Franklin St. 443-961-3400

Pub Dog Pizza & Drafthouse: The food and beverage scene in Federal Hill has seen some stark changes throughout the years, but this East Cross Street pizza palace remains a stalwart. A loaded pie (the menu lists more than 20 varieties) and a house-brewed pint near the exposed-brick fireplace seems like the perfect winter weekend activity to us. 20 E. Cross St. 410-727-6077

R. House: Grab some grub from this Remington food hall—whose stalls offer everything from pizza and chicken sandwiches to rice bowls and sushi burritos—and create your own campfire around the gas fireplace outside. (Dessert vendor Taharka Bros. even offers its signature honey graham flavor, if you really want to get into the s’mores spirit.) 301 W. 29th St. 443-347-3570

Tark’s Grill + Bar: Famous for its traditional American fare, this upscale restaurant embraces the spirit of the city with vintage photography and modern décor. The spot’s signature outdoor courtyard boasts an artsy fireplace surrounded by a flowing fountain. 2360 W. Joppa Rd. Lutherville. 410-583-8275

The Valley Inn: The glow of two working gas fireplaces fills the dining room and oyster-themed “O” Bar of this 1800s Greenspring Valley roadhouse. Its menu features classic comfort foods, such as crab cake platters and hearty seafood gumbo, which serve as a perfect main event to any winter meal. 10501 Falls Rd., Lutherville. 410-828-0002

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The Best Area Soup Spots to Help Keep Warm This Season https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/the-best-area-soup-spots-to-help-keep-warm-this-season/ Thu, 28 Sep 2023 16:47:00 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=17460

We’re all about a good gazpacho during the summer, but the chillier months are prime time for steamy soups and stews. (Check out this piece if you’re searching for a good bowl of ramen or pho.) Whether you’re looking for a traditional chicken noodle to cure a cold, have a hankering for some spicy Maryland crab, or want to get nostalgic with a creamy tomato, here are a few places to visit to escape the nip in the air.

Atwater’s: With locations scattered everywhere from Kenilworth to Catonsville, this hometown hotspot is full of satisfying comfort foods. The daily soups, which vary by location, are sold by the cup, bowl, or quart and served with Atwater’s fresh-baked breads. Expect varieties like sweet potato bisque and creamy broccoli and cheese. Beloved broth: The first bowl of soup Atwater’s ever sold was a piping-hot helping of shrimp and sausage gumbo at the Belvedere Square location in 2003. If you ever see it on the ever-rotating menu, it’s a can’t-miss. Multiple locations including 3601 Boston St., 667-309-7146

Di Pasquale’s Marketplace: Although best known for its hefty subs and traditional Italian pastas, this Brewers Hill market (with a satellite location in South Baltimore) churns out some stellar soups. Step up to the counter to order a steaming bowl of Tuscan chili, classic fagioli (pasta and beans), cream of crab, or chicken gnocchi. Beloved broth: Italian wedding soup with parsley, Parmesean, and mini-meatballs. 3700 Toone St., 410-276-6787

Lenny’s Delicatessen: Featuring classic touches like cafeteria-style service and paper placemats, this decades-old deli has long been a go-to for breakfast platters, overstuffed sandwiches, fried chicken, and tasty soups. Slurp down classics like split pea, chicken noodle, and lumberjack vegetable. Beloved broth: Chicken matzo ball soup like Bubbe used to make. 9107 Reisterstown Road, Owings Mills, 410-363-3353

Mama’s On the Half Shell: Opened in 2003, Canton’s Mama’s On the Half Shell—which recently expanded with a second location in Owings Mills—offers an array of classic Maryland seafood staples, whether it be crab cakes, seafood clubs, or crab mac and cheese. But let’s not forget another highlight: soup. Piping-hot bowls range from Maryland crab and cream of crab to oyster stew and a seasonal French onion. Beloved broth: Thick seafood chowder. 2901 O’Donnell St., 410-276-3160

Nalley Fresh: We know, we know. This homegrown cafe chain is best known for its customizable salads and rice bowls. But don’t sleep on the soups. While making your way down the line, add on a hearty cup of the soup du jour, which could be anything from chicken noodle to turkey or vegan chili. Beloved broth: In keeping with the DIY spirit, you can create your own layered soup bowl with a choice of protein, plus noodles, quinoa, black beans, carrot, onion, wheat berries, pumpkin seeds, and spinach all covered in a steamy tomato broth. Multiple locations including 120 E. Baltimore Street. 

SoBo Cafe: Settle in at one of the white linen-covered tables at this Federal Hill dining destination to start your meal with a cup of steamy soup. Seasonal favorites include a tortilla and creamy tomato basil soup. Beloved broth: Butternut squash with sherry topped with garlic aioli and crispy sage. 6 W. Cross St., 410-752-1518

Soup’s On: This cozy outpost in Midtown-Belvedere exudes plenty of charm, with chalkboard menus, coveted window seating, and whimsical, hand-painted table-tops inspired by the featured soups on the menu. (The butternut squash table is particularly pleasing, with labeled illustrations of ingredients like thyme and leeks.) The offerings rotate frequently, and include a sizable vegan and vegetarian selection. Be on the lookout for options ranging from a classic French onion to cream of crab. Beloved broth: Cream of tomato with mascarpone. 11 W. Preston St., 410-528-1003

Stone Mill Bakery & Cafe: Whether you’re dining in, or ordering a quart to-go, you can’t go wrong with the scratch-made soups at this Green Spring Station staple. Get cozy and pair the cafe’s warm bowls (think non-fat vegetable and a classic chicken noodle) with any of its fresh-baked breads. Beloved broth: Stone Mill’s famous tomato-basil soup will be sure to soothe your soul. Multiple locations including 10751 Falls Road, Lutherville-Timonium. 410-821-1358

Thames Street Oyster House: Seafood stews abound at this Fells Point spot, which boasts a menu full of oceanic offerings like fish and chips, oysters on the half shell, and classic lobster rolls. Try the Eastern Shore oyster stew, or the special weekend chowder made with Rhode Island quahogs (hard clams). Beloved broth: Locally inspired Maryland crab with braised short rib. 1728 Thames St., 443-449-7726

Urban Deli: Early birds love grabbing locally sourced Towson Hot Bagels and Zeke’s coffee at this Federal Hill breakfast-and-lunch spot, which also serves an array of signatures sandwiches. The soup du jour rotates daily, and includes chicken noodle, hearty vegetable, and chili. Beloved broth: Cheesy broccoli. 1025 Light St., 443-708-0495


Fact checking assistance by Samantha Carey

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Top Spots to Sip Hot Chocolate This Winter https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/top-hot-chocolate-spots-baltimore/ Thu, 09 Dec 2021 15:00:00 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=23596

It’s no secret that the chemicals in chocolate are known to boost your mood, and there’s nothing quite like a mug full of piping hot cocoa to help forget all of those winter woes. This season, plenty of area eateries are getting creative by putting their own unique spins on the classic cold-weather treat.

“It’s something everyone has a connection to,” says pastry chef Sarah Malphrus, who has worked at local spots including Rye Street Tavern and The Ivy Hotel. She remembers making batches of hot chocolate and spiced cider with her family as a child. “You can never have just one cup.”

Plenty of spots around town are highlighting decadent hot chocolate recipes this season. Here, we’ve compiled a list of some of the top steamy sips:

The Charmery: Especially this time of year, when crowds flock to see the 34th Street Lights in Hampden, a visit to this neighborhood creamery is in order. If you’re one of the naysayers who thinks it’s too cold for ice cream, indulge in a cup of The Charmery’s thick, creamy hot chocolate topped with whipped cream and a hunk of house-made marshmallow. Multiple locations including 801 W. 36th St. 410-814-0493

The Charmery Cocoa Day

The Bun Shop: This late-night coffee corner is a favorite of neighborhood locals and college students alike, with a menu full of worldly beverages, signature buns, and tasty European pastries. Not only does The Bun Shop have a killer classic hot cocoa, but it’s been known to also feature a “spicy” hot chocolate amped up with cinnamon and chili spices. Multiple locations including 239 W. Read St., 410-989-2033

Dooby’s: Warm up with a 12 or 16-oz. cup of hot chocolate at this Mt. Vernon mainstay. While you’re at it, grab one of the shop’s signature cookies, muffins, scones, or cake slices to start the day off right. 802 N. Charles St., 410-609-3162

Miss Shirley’s Café: Just in time for the dropping temperatures, Miss Shirley’s is warming diners up with it’s piping hot chocolate topped with a swirl of house-made whipped cream. Don’t miss other seasonal specials including the peppermint hot cocoa pancakes— garnished with a dollop of peppermint-infused whipped cream and a mini candy cane for good measure. Multiple locations including 750 E. Pratt St., 410-528-5273

Pitango Gelato: Take your taste buds on a journey to the Italian Alps by way of Fells Point at this neighborhood gelato spot that offers an entire menu full of European hot chocolate drinks during the colder months. Head to the mint green awning to enjoy specialties such as Hot Italian Sipping Chocolate (premium cocoa brewed with milk and sugar), Marrochino (equal parts sipping chocolate and espresso) and Chocolate Affogato—a scoop of any flavor gelato drowning in Pitango’s signature sipping chocolate. 802 S. Broadway, 410-236-0741

Pure Chocolate by Jinji: Gourmet chocolate purveyor Jinji Fraser highlights a sophisticated sipping chocolate during the holiday season. Swing by her stall in Belvedere Square Market to sip small pours of the dairy and gluten-free drink, which features raw Ecuadorean chocolate. 529 E. Belvedere Ave., 410-394-9901

Stone Mill Bakery: Alongside the plethora of pastries and scones on the morning menu at this Green Spring Station stalwart is a variety of warm beverages including mocha, Americano, and café au lait coffees. The list also showcases a rich hot chocolate using Valrhona cocoa powder sourced from the village of Tain L’Hermitage in the south of France. 10751 Falls Road, Lutherville, 410-821-1358

Teavolve: While checking things off of your holiday shopping list in Harbor East, be sure to swing by this staple cafe for the “Chocoholics Choice.” The rich drink will warm your soul with Belgian-style semi-sweet cocoa powder and a requisite dollop of whipped cream. 1401 Aliceanna St. 

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The Best Places to Get Your Pumpkin Spice Fix This Fall https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/the-best-places-to-get-your-pumpkin-spice-fix-this-fall/ Wed, 22 Sep 2021 14:00:00 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=17573 Continued]]> It’s been over a decade since Starbucks premiered its Pumpkin Spice Latte—the burnt-orange beverage that has since become synonymous with sweaters, scarves, and strolling over crunchy autumn leaves. But the fall flavor spans far beyond the PSL, and outposts all over Charm City are using pumpkin spice as a starting-off point to create their own seasonal specialties. From beer to baked goods, here are some of our favorite local pumpkin products.

Atwater’s pumpkin lattes and pumpkin bitesNot only does Atwater’s serve up some standout soups and sandwiches, but the local farm-to-table chain also offers a slew of fall-inspired takeaway items and coffees this time of year. In addition to its famous pumpkin bites, the cafe is rolling out warm pumpkin latte using a homemade syrup made with roasted pumpkins and a blend of spices beginning September 21. Multiple locations including 3601 Boston St., 667-309-7146

Common Ground’s pumpkin chocolate muffins: This small-but-mighty java joint in Hampden—which has announced plans to move to larger digs around the corner this fall—is embracing the spicy season by revamping its PSL. Now, you can enjoy a new recipe crafted with real roasted pumpkin juice and warm spices. Plus, the cafe’s baked-from-scratch muffin lineup now includes a plump pumpkin chocolate chip muffin that is both vegan and gluten free.

Iron Rooster’s pumpkin pop-tarts: Fans of this breakfast-all-day spot can now experience a sweet ending (or beginning) to their favorite brunch dish with the pumpkin pie “Roos-tart.” The orange-glazed pastries are available at the restaurant’s Hunt Valley, Canton, and Locust Point locations. (Still craving more spice? Try the limited-edition pumpkin pancakes to really get into the spirit.)

Le Monade’s pumpkin cider shrub: Chef Carleen Goodridge—the brains behind Le Monade’s small-batch mixers, blends, and syrups—has whipped up this spicy, citrusy shrub that she describes as “fall in a glass.” Not only does Goodridge recommend using it as the base of a warm or iced cocktail, but she also suggests incorporating it into savory meals as the start to a dressing or a glaze for vegetables. Order a bottle online, here.

Michele’s Granola’s pumpkin spice blend: Local granola guru Michele Tsucalas got her start by pedaling crunchy concoctions at area farmers’ markets, and she’s created a fan-favorite flavor inspired by the markets’ annual fall harvest. Among the many varieties that Timonium-based Michele’s Granola whips up for the chillier months is a pumpkin spice blend that fuses golden flax, pumpkin seeds, pecans, and pumpkin pie spices. You can stock up by ordering online, or heading to retailers including Whole Foods Market, MOM’s Organic Market, and Wegmans.

THB’s pumpkin-spice bagels and spreads: All six THB locations in Towson, Timonium, Canton, Charles Village, Columbia, and Owings Mills welcomed fall early by rolling out their seasonal pumpkin spice bagels, cream cheeses, and lattes. Boiled and baked daily, the chewy, outside-of-the-box bagels are a great way to savor the season.

Local pumpkin beers: We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention the bounty of local breweries currently celebrating seasonal releases. From favorites like Heavy Seas’ Great’er Pumpkin and Evolution Craft Brewing’s Jacques Au Lantern to DuClaw’s 31 Pumpkin Spice Lager and Full Tilt Brewing’s Patterson Pumpkin, Charm City is chock-full of fall brews to get you in the mood for apple-picking and leaf-peeping.

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Where to Find Mother’s Day Eats and Sweets This Weekend https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/mothers-day-dining-specials-brunch-dessert-2021/ Wed, 05 May 2021 18:28:07 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=106378 Continued]]> Whether you’re hoping to treat the queen in your life to an outdoor brunch, spaced out meal in a local dining room, or a takeout feast, many restaurants in Charm City are open with new and exciting dishes—making it easy to spoil your motherly figure this weekend. Visit these local hotspots to enjoy unique offerings while still practicing safe social distancing. 

Brunch & Dinner

Charleston: Chef Cindy Wolf will be serving a three-course prix-fixe menu with optional wine pairings this Mother’s Day. For $85 per person, enjoy dishes including wild rockfish ceviche, white truffle fettuccine, pan-roasted duck, and a dark chocolate torte. The limited-edition menu will be available for indoor or outdoor seating, as well as carryout, from 1 to 7 p.m. on Sunday, May 9. 1000 Lancaster St.

City Cruises: Give mom a change of scenery with this elegant brunch cruise through the Inner Harbor—where she will be gifted a spring flower and a complimentary mimosa. Cruises will run from 10 a.m. to 12 p.m. and 3 to 5 p.m. 561 Light St. $54.90.-$59.90.

Cinghiale: Snag an outdoor table with a waterfront view at this Italian enoteca and osteria in Harbor East. Cinghiale will be open for dinner on Mother’s Day with its a la carte menu and a few new specials. Look out for plates like Spaghetti a la chitarra with gulf shrimp, garlic, and capers in a white wine butter sauce. Also featured: roasted Bronzino served with English peas, fava beans, sunchoke purée, and parsley butter. Indoor and outdoor dining will be available along with takeout. 822 Lancaster St.

Cosima: This lovely Hampden hangout will be treating all moms to a special surprise on Sunday. Plus, the holiday menu will include a variety of pizzas, small plates, pastas, and entrees. Among them will be crowd favorites like burrata, crispy Brussels sprouts, and mustard and almond-crusted rockfish. 3000 Falls Rd.

Duck Duck Goose: In honor of Mother’s Day, the teams at Duck Duck Goose in Fells Point and Bethesda have partnered with Flowers & Fancies to offer an optional “Forget Me Not” bouquet to be delivered at the end of your meal. Enjoy chef Ashish Alfred’s avocado toast, shrimp and grits, or foie gras breakfast burger while waiting for the surprise arrangement to arrive. Guests are encouraged to note the floral request, which is an additional $65, while making a reservation. Multiple locations.

Good Neighbor: In need of a last-minute gift? This one-stop-shop for coffee, toasts, plants, and housewares on Falls Road has you covered. The staff has curated a selection of of one-of-a-kind floral arrangements and gift trays filled with local goodies to satisfy all interests. The “Wind Down Mother” tray features a bottle of New Neighbors, a collaboration blend with Old Westminster Winery. Another option is the “Tea Time Mother” set that comes complete with your choice of Wight Tea.

Gunther & Co.: In Brewers Hill, Gunther & Co. will be offering dining deals that are bound to make your mouth water. Menu highlights include lobster potstickers, house made tagliatelle pasta, goat cheese and chive quiche with Maryland crab, and a raspberry-lemon pound cake to satisfy your sweet tooth. 3650 Toone St.

Guinness Open Gate Brewery: In addition to Mother’s Day brunch, Guinness’ Halethorpe facility will be hosting a variety of family-friendly activities in honor of the holiday this weekend. Guests are invited to stop by the complimentary family portrait station, check out a beautiful Mother’s Day flower installation by artist Jasmine Ellesse (who will also be making free floral arrangements for moms), and sip on tea made with Guinness’ Loose Leaf IPA while listening to the live sounds of Joi Carter from 1-4 p.m. on Sunday. 5001 Washington Blvd. Halethorpe, MD.

La Cuchara: Chef Ben Lefenfeld has arranged a prix-fixe feast for diners at this Hampden favorite from 11 a.m.-3 p.m. on Sunday. At $49 per person, the three-course menu features options like dayboat scallops, wood-grilled skirt steak, saffron paella, and a lemon tart. 3600 Clipper Mill Rd.

NiHao Baltimore: From 12-9 p.m. on Sunday, take your mom on a special date to NiHao in Canton, where you can enjoy a $90 dim sum menu for two. The offerings—five small plates, three entrees, and a dessert to share—will include lamb meatballs, five-spice pork ribs, shrimp and scallion soy noodles, and more. A limited à la carte menu will also be available for those looking for a favorite signature dish. Dine-in reservations are required, and carryout pre-orders are highly recommended. 2322 Boston St. 

Petit Louis Bistro: If a French feast—featuring potato and leek soup, grilled flank steak, and flourless chocolate cake—sounds like your mom’s idea of a perfect meal, head to this Roland Park mainstay to celebrate accordingly. Petit Louis will be serving a $59 prix-fixe, as well as its a la carte menu all day long. Other specials will include a local asparagus salad, pan-roasted scallops, and lemon cake with raspberry sorbet. 4800 Roland Ave.

Thames Street Oyster House: If you’re planning on celebrating from home, this Fells Point fixture is highlighting heat-and-eat meals such as crab-stuffed rockfish with local asparagus and roasted potatoes, as well as a box of crab cakes with house remoulade. Order anytime for pickup, or swing by for additional dine-in specials throughout the day on Sunday.

The Verandah: Aside from its regular menu of Indian small plates, entrees, and wraps (think everything from mixed veggie pakodas to a Tikki Chaat wrap), The Verandah in Hampden is putting together special packages for mamas this week. The $39 gift bag includes jars of spicy pineapple, mango, and date and tamarind chutney, as well as sesame-toasted toasted naan and a bottle of strawberry-rhubarb mint lemonade—all made in house. Place orders online for pickup Thursday through Sunday.

Delectable Desserts 

The Corner Pantry: Surprise mom with a specialty sweet from this Mt. Washington fixture. The “Mum’s Victoria Sponge Cake” is an eight-inch, two layer vanilla cake with mixed berry jam and earl grey whipped cream. Each cake is $40, and will be boxed with ribbon and florals. 6080 Falls Rd.

Codetta Bake Shop: This South Baltimore-based bakery has collaborated with North Avenue flower shop Fleurs d’Ave to provide the ultimate wow factor. The teams have created a two-tier luxury gift box filled with a premium floral arrangement on top and Codetta cupcakes and chocolate-covered strawberries below for $115. Place your order for pickup this weekend, and be sure to add on some other Codetta specials—think zesty lemon rosette cupcakes and mango passionfruit cheesecake—to really make mom’s day. 55 E Fort Ave.

The Charmery: In typical Charmery fashion, the homegrown ice cream shop will feature a creative four-pack pint package ($40) with flavors inspired by songs that shout out mothers. Options include “Mama Said Knock You Out,” a spiced chai cheesecake scoop; “Nobody Loves Me But My Mother,” champagne roasted blueberry flavor; “Mother Popcorn,” butter popcorn base with caramel corn pieces; and “Mama I’m Coming Home,” a chocolate ice cream with ground sesame, date syrup, and date pieces. The pint package can be scheduled for pickup or delivery, and will be packed in a floral gift bag. Be sure to jam out to The Charmery’s Spotify playlist while you dig in. Multiple locations including 801 W. 36th St. 

Our Time Kitchen: Chefs Catina Smith and Kiah Gibian—who are working to open a share kitchen for wxmen-owned food businesses in Old Goucher—will be set up in front of Sophomore Coffee on Friday, May 7 to serve up special treats in advance of the holiday weekend. From 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., get your fix of lemon ginger cookies, cinnamon rolls with sour cream glaze, cornmeal cake with strawberries, or a savory spring quiche. Orders can be placed online for pickup, and a small batch of items will be available for sale on site. 2223 Maryland Ave.

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Get to Know the Local Pastry Chef Appearing on New Season of ‘Best Baker in America’ https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/pastry-chef-yassmeen-haskins-jackson-food-network-best-baker-in-america/ Mon, 03 May 2021 19:24:36 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=106306

“Sugar, flour, and eggs have taken me places,” Yassmeen Haskins Jackson says. 

It’s true. Before Jackson launched her online boutique pastry shop, Cocoa & Nuts, three years ago, the staple ingredients led the Baltimore born-and-raised baker into local kitchens at the Royal Sonesta Harbor Court hotel and Sacré Sucré in Fells Point. More recently, they helped the seasoned pastry chef score her very first TV gig.

This Monday, May 3 at 9 p.m., Jackson will face off alongside nine other pastry chefs in the season four premiere of Food Network’s Best Baker in America, hosted by Carla Hall of Top Chef and The Chew fame. We recently caught up with Jackson to learn more about her love of baking and her first big TV break.

How did you get started in the local baking scene?
I decided to go to Johnson & Wales University for culinary school and came out a baker. I’ve worked at multiple places all over Baltimore City—from hotels to catering companies to smaller businesses—and now I have my own online pastry shop.

As the owner and executive pastry chef of Cocoa & Nuts, you specialize in cakes, cookies, and other treats. What inspired your love of baking?
It started really, really young. On Saturdays, Maryland Public Television would have all the cooking shows, and I would just be up watching them all day when everyone else was playing outside. When it came down to deciding what I wanted to do with my life, I found out that my local high school, Edmondson-Westside High School, offered a baking and culinary program. I went with baking, and I’m so glad I did.

Your pastries are known for being customized for any occasion, from baby showers to retirement parties. How does it feel to be able to add a personalized twist for your clients?
In a nutshell, it’s joy. You might become my client for a wedding, right? And then it might turn into your bachelorette party. Then, it turns into your bridal shower. Then, it turns into your gender reveal party, and that turns into the actual baby shower. And then we have the first birthday party. So I’ve been with people for years, and that’s fantastic. 

I have the privilege of touching people and their lives in so many facets. I had clients who lost their loved ones during COVID, and, since there were no more homegoing services, they were having [gatherings] at their homes. So I started making bread pudding for my clients. They would call and say, “It’s been a tough day, but you put a smile on everyone’s faces.” When I do stuff like that, I know I’m doing what I’m supposed to be doing.

Is there a particular favorite custom cake that you’ve made for a client?
I made a cake in the shape of an avocado for a young lady whose name was Ava, so they called her “Ava-cado.” That was just hilarious to me! And then I did the Maryland Preakness cake. That was an achievement. I’m from Baltimore, and all my life, I had never been to the Pimlico Race Course. But when I finally stepped onto that property, I was bringing my work, you know? I was showing up for me. But I’d probably say any dessert that makes my mother, or my family, smile is my favorite. Sometimes it’s not a cake. It might be a pie, because I love pie. I’m a pie girl.

What was it like to find out you’d be competing on Best Baker in America?
I got the phone call and I was like, “Of course—I mean, wait…me?” I was super excited. This just happens to be in my wheelhouse given everything that I’ve done. I’ve always worked for hotels and catering companies, and usually when you work with those types of establishments, you’re doing a little bit of everything. You have vegan clients, you have gluten free clients—you really never know who could walk in the door. I knew Best Baker in America would give me the opportunity to showcase my talents. 

Carla Hall hosts the show alongside judges including Food Network personality Jason Smith and cookbook author Gesine Prado. What was it like to bake for them?
Can we just talk about Carla Hall? All of the beautiful goddess and queen chefdom that she is bringing to this kitchen. I mean, this Brown girl right here was like, “Wait, Carla Hall is a judge? Oh my god, how’s my hair?” Just to meet all three of the judges in itself was kitchen gold, you know? But to meet Carla Hall? I felt like I found the prize in the bottom of a Cracker Jack box.  

As a Baltimore native, what does it mean to be able to represent for local viewers?
Everything. It means everything to me. I’m so proud of where I’m from, and I’m so proud of the community in which I live. When people turn their television on Monday night and tune in to Best Baker in America, they’re not only going to see Carla Hall. They’re going to see Yassmeen Haskins Jackson, and they’re going to see my other competitor, Felicia [Mayden of Chicago.] The cast is diverse. I’m hoping someone from my city or from my state can watch and say, “You know what? Someone from where I’m from did that. She’s trying. And if she can try, why can’t I?”

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First Taste of Perennial in Towson https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/first-taste-of-perennial-restaurant-towson-opening-former-cunninghams-space/ Mon, 26 Apr 2021 16:23:09 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=106006

[Editor’s Note 4/28/21: After this story was reported and published, Perennial announced that it had entered into a partnership with Atlas Restaurant Group, which will “put into place the final details to ensure a successful opening” in summer 2021, according to a press release.] 

 

Chef Jay Rohlfing takes a lot of pride in living seasonally. Aside from being known for incorporating local ingredients into his rotating menus, he and his wife, Lisa, embrace the environmental changes at their “mini farm homestead” in Parkville—where the two forage for mushrooms, raise baby chickens and ducks, and tend to their own gardens.

“We live our lives within the seasons, and with that comes an excitement for what comes next,” says Rohlfing, who headed up the kitchen at Cunningham’s in Towson for four years before plans for a rebrand were announced in January 2020. “So we build our gardens and are able to say, ‘Okay, this one is an annual, and this is a perennial that will come back year after year.’ It’s something to look forward to when it starts to come out of the ground after the frost.’”

That philosophy was part of the inspiration behind Perennial—a locally sourced restaurant in a garden-like setting that will be unveiled in the former Cunningham’s space in the coming weeks. A spring opening seems fitting for the concept—owned by MileOne Holdings, the group behind the Towson City Center development where the restaurant is located—which will make its debut as vaccinations continue and more diners begin to feel comfortable venturing out in the wake of the pandemic. “Spring is a rebirth of many things,” Rohlfing adds.

When the restaurant reemerges—after more than a year since it served its last guests—it will offer a traditional dining room, casual bar, and private area inside, as well as a courtyard and a wrap-around veranda with built-in heaters that can accommodate 75 people. Rohlfing sees it as a happy coincidence that the team was already planning for the rebrand to emphasize outdoor dining (the new space presents a nearly 1:1 ratio of outdoor to indoor seating) before the pandemic hit.

“We did have outdoor seating before, but it was more of an ad hoc style of outdoor dining,” he says of Cunningham’s. “With Perennial, the thought and design of the [concept] itself was very much focused on creating this outdoor space.”

Rendering of the outdoor courtyard with its own blooming Magnolia tree. —Courtesy of Patrick Sutton Interior Design
—Photography by Stacy Zarin Goldberg
—Photography by Stacy Zarin Goldberg
—Photography by Stacy Zarin Goldberg

With decor imagined by local designer Patrick Sutton, Rohlfing says that Perennial evokes the ambiance of New York City’s Tavern on the Green in Central Park. Sutton sets the tone with an Instagrammable wall covered with botanical prints near the entrance, as well as lavender and green touches, soft wooden panels, lime plaster walls, marble topped banquettes, hanging lanterns, and lots of foliage sourced from local nurseries throughout the space.

“My dad used to say, when you play sports, you want to play with the better person because you play up to them,” Rohlfing says. “If you want to be an A, you surround yourself with A’s. Patrick Sutton is an A. Through his vision, I started to morph what I thought about the food that would go out into the space. He was here the other week and, when he looked at the menu, he said, ‘This works. This fits.’ It was one of the best attaboys I had received in a long time.”

Unsurprisingly, the menu continues the chef’s commitment to local sourcing—he works closely with Chesapeake Farm to Table and purveyors everywhere from Finksburg to Monkton—while also showcasing his creative spins on regional classics. Case in point: the Maryland Frosted Crab Soup—a chilled country club favorite that is typically made with half-and-half, Old Bay, and tomato juice.

Rohlfing crafts his own version by slow-roasting plum tomatoes with fennel pollen, shallots, garlic, and herbs. He then purees the mixture with fresh citrus and charred jalapeño, and garnishes it with lump crab meat and a dehydrated tomato powder. For the chef, a Food Network Chopped champion, it’s an example of the familiar dishes that he hopes customers will appreciate at Perennial.

“We’re talking about food that evokes emotion,” he says, “So, what type of food can we serve that, when people come in, they’re like ‘I recognize this,’ and it tugs at a heartstring? We have dishes on the menu that range from nouveau cuisine to comfort dishes, but nothing so crazy that you don’t get it.”

Utz-crusted tempura flounder. —Photography by Scott Suchman
Strawberry salad with pistachio and Champagne vinaigrette. —Photography by Stacy Zarin Goldberg.
Lollipop chicken with sweet heat and toasted garlic. —Photography by Stacy Zarin Goldberg

Other plates featured on the opening lineup include an Utz potato chip-crusted flounder with chow chow slaw, fried lobster tails with local honeycomb, a pork chop with blue crab fried rice, Ocean City scallops over a spring pea salad, and a sirloin burger topped with roasted garlic mayo. The beverage program will lean into the seasonal approach with cocktails like “The Gardener’s Basket” (vodka, basil, watermelon, and sparkling wine), and the “Wrangler,” which combines bourbon with clementine, bitters, and ginger beer.

Rohlfing says he’s looking forward to getting back into the routine of regular service with his team in the redesigned kitchen, which was previously shared with the adjoining Cunningham’s Cafe + Bakery. “We’ve been brainstorming for a year and a half,” he says. “The first iteration of the menu looks nothing like the last.”

Most of all, he says he hopes that Perennial will live up to its name—becoming a favorite that locals constantly come back to.

“I think of other stalwarts in the county like The Valley Inn,” he says. “When my wife and I went there for the first time, we saw generations of families sitting together. I bet the mothers remember going with their mother before. That’s built over time, but also built by creating nostalgia while you’re there. I think flavors can do that.”

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Open & Shut: John Brown General & Butchery; ‘Dashery; Perennial; Cava https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/open-shut-john-brown-butchery-perennial-dashery-cava/ Thu, 04 Mar 2021 21:52:13 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=104483 Continued]]> NEWS:

John Brown General & Butchery Takes Over Parts & Labor Space: It’s been years since we’ve seen a full-time dining establishment operate inside the old Parts & Labor space in Remington. But now, Cockeysville’s John Brown General & Butchery has officially taken over the spot, carrying on the traditions of locally sourced, whole-animal butchery from the building’s previous inhabitant. Though details about the concept have yet to be announced, we can only expect that the John Brown team will place emphasis on their array of sustainably farmed meats—which can be cut to order or sampled inside a hearty sandwich. (JBGB’s famous cold cut piles three types of salami on a Cunningham’s Bakery sub roll with provolone, lettuce, mayo, and house sauce.) Stay tuned for updates on the grand opening date. 

H3irloom Launches Its Own Hot Sauce: Spicy food lovers will be happy to hear that chefs David and Tonya Thomas of H3irloom Food Group recently launched their own set of small-batch hot sauces. The couples’ food is always steeped in tradition, and these new offerings are no different. Sold as a duo, the set includes “Sweat,” a unique take on the traditional American hot sauce that traces back to Louisiana in the mid-1800s, as well as “Sosu,” a West African-inspired pepper sauce that features habañero peppers and a signature seasoning blend. The limited-edition bottles are now available for purchase online.

COMING SOON

‘Dashery: Throughout the past year, Hotel Revival’s first-floor kitchen and dining space has been offered for rotating pop-ups to use rent-free in the wake of the pandemic. Now, as the city looks toward reopening, general manager Donte Johnson says it’s time to enliven the space with a new cafe. Slated to open in the second quarter of 2021, the eatery—whose name is short for “haberdashery,” (a shop that sells materials for sewing)—is meant to be a spot where locals and hotel guests can “dash” in to grab coffee or a quick bite before heading out to explore the neighborhood. As temperatures warm up this spring, the hotel also plans to bring back “Topside Outside,” a streetside set-up that showcases a menu from Revival’s top-floor bar and restaurant. 

Nola: Get ready to get a taste of the Big Easy by way of Federal Hill. As its name signifies, Nola will be bringing Creole to Cross Street when it opens in the old Ryleigh’s Oyster space this spring. According to its website, the spot will combine “fiery flavor, sweet harmony, vibrant culture, and ever-present energy.” We’ll raise a Sazerac to that. 

Perennial: Last year, we told you about chef Jay Rohlfing’s plans to rebrand Cunningham’s in Towson. “Every restaurant has to reinvent itself at some point, and we’ve been in Towson for seven years,” he said at the time. “We figured it was time to be a part of that renaissance.” Now, after a year spent “thinking, imagining, inventing, pondering and testing,” Rohlfing and his team are preparing to unveil Perennial—a modern American concept slated to debut in the space this May. In keeping with its name, the reimagined restaurant—designed by interior guru Patrick Sutton—will feature a garden-like setting in its conservatory dining room, casual bar and lounge, private dinner space, and outdoor terrace equipped with heaters for year-round service. Dishes to look out for on Rohlfing’s opening menu include a crispy lobster tail with wildflower honey vinaigrette, Ocean City scallops with a spring pea salad, a house-ground sirloin burger with aged cheddar, and tempura flounder accompanied by a vegetable stew. 

THB Bagelry & Deli Owings Mills: The largest THB location yet will open this May at Mill Station in Owings Mills. Designed with social distancing in mind, the beloved breakfast-and-lunch spot will offer contactless ordering kiosks, a spaced-out dining room, and even a walk-up window that is accessible from outside. Though the owners’ roots are Italian (they’ve teamed up with Naples-based design firm, Manuarino, to build out the shop’s interior), the THB menu features traditional deli favorites including fresh bagels with an array of spreads, wraps, salads, and sandwiches. 

OPEN

Cava: Speaking of Owings Mills, locals have been welcoming this fast-casual spot with open arms ever since its grand opening in the Foundry Row development last week. Though Cava Grill operates a number of eateries throughout the state, this is the first to land in Baltimore. (Cava Mezze, a sit-down version from the same restaurant group, recently closed in Harbor East.) Stop by to customize your own salad, bowl, or pita with Mediterranean-inspired toppings ranging from harissa and grilled meatballs to falafel and crazy feta dip.

CH-CH CHANGES

La Cuchara: After a year of focusing on its online marketplace and curbside model, Hampden’s Basque-inspired gem is officially relaunching indoor dining this month. Limited seating for both indoor and outdoor service will resume on March 12. In the meantime, be sure to stock up on to-go favorites—such as house-smoked salmon salad, ready-to-cook pierogies, and fresh produce—before the online marketplace closes up shop on Friday, March 5. 

Little Fig Bakeshop: Chef Melanie Molinaro has big dreams for her vegan pop-up shop, which has become known for its dairy-free doughnuts, pastries, cakes, and other picture-perfect sweets. She recently launched a GoFundMe to help secure a permanent home in Highlandtown. The “dream spot” would allow Little Fig to ramp up production, while also housing Plantry Goods—Molinaro’s retail shop that offers vegan prepared meals, faux meats, condiments, soups, dips, and spreads. The community-focused headquarters would also highlight grocery items from local farms, plant-based cooking classes, and other family-friendly workshops. The crowdfunding campaign will help to secure equipment and proper upgrades for the storefront and production kitchen. 

Red Star: Chef Cyrus Keefer is switching things up at Red Star in Fells Point. The menu has shifted to highlight Italian-American favorites, wine, craft beer, and cocktails for dinner service five nights per week. Among the new items are warm olives, grilled calamari, garganelli pasta with pecorino and pork ragout, a cold cut calzone, a chicken parm hoagie, and, of course, a classic tomato and basil pizza. The team is also in the process of building out a boutique spirits shop for diners who want to grab a bottle on their way out. 

EPICUREAN EVENTS

3/10: Ekiben’s Fifth Birthday
We can’t believe it’s been five years since the dining scene was forever changed by Ekiben’s Asian-fusion fare and collaborative pop-up events. To celebrate the shop’s big birthday, owners Steve Chu and Ephrem Abebe are offering their specialty buns and bowls at the same price as when they first started out on the local farmers market circuit. Both locations in Fells Point and Hampden will feature $7 steamed buns and $10 rice bowls on Wednesday, March 10.

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Open & Shut: De Kleine Duivel; Birroteca; Morning Mugs Coffee https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/open-shut-de-kleine-duivel-birroteca-morning-mugs-coffee/ Thu, 18 Feb 2021 21:14:47 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=104140 Continued]]> OPENING THIS WEEKEND 

De Kleine Duivel: They’ve given us everything from literary-themed cocktails and foie gras  burgers to boozy shakes and gourmet hot dogs. Now, the team at the The Bluebird Cocktail Room is ready to take on yet another concept. Last year, owners Paul and Caroline Benkert took over and quietly began renovating their next-door neighbor on Hickory Avenue in Hampden. Since then, they’ve transformed De Kleine Duivel—the Belgian beer hall famous for its brews on tap and cozy, no-frills atmosphere—into a space that maintains the storied concept while also adding some of the Bluebird flair. “We wanted to preserve the most loved parts of the DKD experience,” Paul said in a statement. “It was important to us to maintain the soul of DKD, and we’re extremely excited to share this loved space again with everyone who’s supported it over the years, but now with a wider range of thoughtful offerings.”

Slated to debut on Friday, February 19, the revamped space will serve the same beloved beer collection from its grand wooden bar. But the updated drink lineup will also emphasize fermentation, with new beverages like a barreled Bee’s Knees, blueberry kombucha on tap, an array of natural wines, and a house lemon soda perfect for making a summer Shandy. In keeping with the preservation theme, locally sourced snacks will include rotating fermented vegetables from Karma Farm, beef jerky marinated in Keepwell soy sauce, and fermented honey-drizzled Tomme cheese served with sourdough focaccia. The menu will be available for dine-in, online ordering, and takeout beginning Friday. When the bar eventually operates at full capacity, it will offer 70 seats plus a deck garden for diners to gather outside. 

OPEN

Birroteca: Did someone say Duck Duck Goose pizza? After nearly a year hiatus due to the impacts of the pandemic, this Hampden pizza-and-pasta haven made a celebrated comeback earlier this month. In addition to its top-notch lineup of wine and craft drafts (carryout specials include discounted Evolution Brewing six packs and 25 percent-off all wine bottles), the menu gives diners a great opportunity to get reacquainted with old favorites like hand-breaded calamari, wild boar bolognese over pappardelle, and the signature Duck Duck Goose pizza topped with duck confit and fig-onion jam. 

Morning Mugs Coffee: Taking over the former home of Hanover & Hughes Collective in Otterbein is this new java joint from Federal Hill resident Tyler DellaRatta. Coffee, cold brew, matcha, chai, espresso, and a daily selection of pastries are all available for breakfast and lunch service at Morning Mugs—whose name was inspired by a morning ritual that DellaRatta routinely shares on his social media. Every morning when he opens his dishwasher or cabinet, he guesses what color the inside of his coffee mug is going to be. “I started recording my morning ritual, and it didn’t take long for others to catch on and become just as intrigued as I was,” DellaRatta shares on his website. “Sharing these precious moments with my friends and family made each morning that much more important… Now, I am happy to share the Morning Mugs experience with everyone who walks into our coffee shop.” The new spot offers online ordering and operates Monday through Saturday from 6:30 a.m. to 4 p.m., as well as Sundays from 7:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. 

NEWS

One-Hour Dining Restriction Lifted in Baltimore City: After analyzing recent data and re-evaluating many of his COVID-19 restrictions, Mayor Brandon Scott announced earlier this week that the one-hour maximum time limit for indoor dining will be removed effective Monday, February 22. As of now, city restaurants must continue to maintain a sign-in sheet and adhere to the 25 percent capacity for indoor dining and 50 percent cap for outdoor. “Baltimore City continues to have one of the lowest positivity rates in the state, but residents and visitors must remain vigilant,” Scott said in a press release. “Everyone must continue to wear face coverings, practice physical distancing, and avoid large gatherings if we want to continue to build on these gains and keep our community safe.”

Clavel: Just when we thought we couldn’t love Clavel any more, the crew at the Remington restaurant recently began to renovate an adjacent Nixtamaleria—which will serve as a space for them to grind corn and make masa for their tortillas. When it’s finished, it will also host a carryout counter that offers lunch and bottles of mezcal to-go. “This has been a long time dream of ours only now made possible through this great pause of life,” reads a recent Instagram post. “This brutal pandemic that has both given and taken with the same hand.”

Dough Boy Fresh Pretzel Co.: This homegrown food vendor—perhaps best known for its pretzel roll cheesesteaks and pretzel bites smothered in creamy crab dip—is starting a new chapter next month. After candidly sharing his struggles to stay afloat throughout the pandemic (Dough Boy Fresh was the first of many local food businesses to receive relief from the Barstool Fund), owner Jeff Carter announced this week that he will be leaving his production space in Dundalk to pursue pop-ups around the Baltimore brewery scene. Throughout March, Dough Boy Fresh will quell carb cravings at Mobtown Brewing in Brewers Hill every weekend (a new collaboration beer with Mobtown called Natty Dough is due out soon) and Key Brewing in Dundalk every Thursday. In an Instagram post, Carter shared that he is in search of a new permanent home to not only prep his food, but also host other pop-ups and food trucks on weekends. 

EPICUREAN EVENTS 

2/19-2/21: Woodberry Kitchen’s Subculture Pop-Up Menu
The theme for Woodberry Kitchen’s creative pop-up menu this weekend is “subculture”—which the restaurant defines as “a deep dive into deliciousness with anything that can fit on a long roll.” Sandwich lovers can choose from a lineup that fills toasted rolls with everything from fried oysters and falafel to spicy pork shoulder and Buffalo chicken. If you’re in the mood for something classic, try out “The Zeppelin,” topped with griddled Rettland Farm andouille sausage, peppers, onions, provolone, and horseradish mustard. Don’t forget to add a requisite bag of chips and a house-baked brownie when you order online. 


2/28, 3/7, 3/14: Sunday Supper Series at the Sagamore Pendry Baltimore
The Sagamore Pendry in Fells Point has rolled out a new dinner series inspired by the  comforting feeling of sharing a meal around the dinner table at home. Every Sunday, the hotel will offer a four-course, carryout dinner for four that can be reheated in the comfort of your kitchen. This weekend’s menu is an ode to a classic chicken box, featuring honey-brined fried chicken, Old Bay fries, coleslaw, and apple pie for dessert. The best part? A portion of the proceeds from every meal sold will benefit the Living Classrooms Foundation. 

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Five Places Where You Can Get Quesabirria Tacos in Baltimore https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/five-places-where-you-can-get-quesabirria-tacos-in-baltimore/ Mon, 15 Feb 2021 13:00:14 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=103955

Currently, there’s no shortage of places where Baltimoreans can find quesabirria tacos—a dish that has seen a major boom in places like Los Angeles and New York City.

So what are they, exactly? It all starts with birria: a traditional Mexican dish of slow-cooked goat or mutton in a flavor-packed stew. Variations have abounded since its inception in Jalisco, Mexico, and now it’s popular to see birria made with beef or lamb.

“I grew up eating birria,” says Jimmy Longoria, owner of local food truck Mexican On the Run. “It’s a wedding kind of food. It’s also traditional for baptisms and quinceañeras.”

Tijuana-style birria—which typically stews beef in a chili adobo sauce to give it that reddish, dark brown color—has been famously served there in the form of tacos. Los Angelenos of Mexican descent, Longoria says, added cheese to create quesabirria tacos. Tortillas are either dipped or drizzled with the birria’s broth (or consomé), then loaded with cheese, birria, cilantro, and onion before frying. Any remaining consomé can be served on the side like an au jus for dipping.

A Los Angeles native himself, Longoria returned home for a visit in 2019 after a few years of being away.

“I spent three or four days there just kind of figuring out what had changed in Los Angeles, and my cousins and family members were telling me how birria had taken off,” he says, “and how the style from Tijuana, which borders California, had really taken off, not just in the birria but in the tacos and how they’re prepared.”

Longoria added quesabirria tacos to the menu at Mexican On the Run in September 2020 and says that they have been a gamechanger, with 20 or more people now typically waiting in line for them during the winter months. Some customers have even traveled from D.C. and Philly just to get their hands on the crispy tacos. “It’s changed my business,” he says.

Below, we round up five local spots—including Mexican On the Run—where diners can indulge in quesabirria:

 

Cocina Luchadoras

Cocina Luchadoras owner Rosalyn Vera began serving quesabirria tacos at her Fells Point restaurant at the end of January, and since then orders “have taken over,” she says.

The first day Vera offered them was a Wednesday, and she soon sold out: “I did not know that it would get to the point where I would have to close several times for a few hours because it was way too many orders for my small kitchen,” she says.

Now, customers must pre-order them online for pickup on Fridays. “I want to be able to offer customers a good product and not get too busy,” Vera says. “That’s why we have to do pre-orders…I just want to bring the best food that I can bring to Baltimore.”

Vera had been thinking of adding birria to her menu for some time, but had to tinker with her recipe first. Now, her quesabirria tacos feature slow-cooked birria of beef (seasoned with cinnamon and different types of chili peppers), Oaxaca cheese, onion, and cilantro. All ingredients are tucked into her handmade tortillas and served with consomé for dipping.

Be on the lookout, too, for Vera’s new quesadilla birria and birria burritos, both of which come with consomé.

Courtesy of Cocina Luchadoras

La Food Marketa

At La Food Marketa in Pikesville, birria-seekers will find executive chef John Bedingfield’s take on the dish with pork. “It was something different,” he says, “I had been seeing a lot of beef, and pork just has so much depth and flavor. It can taste more moist and tender.”

Bedingfield’s pork quesabirria tacos debuted on the menu in November 2020 as a Taco Tuesday special, and the demand quickly skyrocketed. They’re now available daily, and Bedingfield says he doesn’t see the dish leaving the menu anytime soon.

“The trend has definitely spiked,” he says. “It’s great seeing how people can make it their own.”

La Food Marketa’s variation consists of slow-braised pork in a broth of different dried chili and chipotle peppers. Bedingfield saves the fat cap from the meat to dip the corn tortillas in before frying, which he says “takes it to the next level.” The tortillas are also loaded with cheese, onion and cilantro. The braising liquid, which is saved for dipping, is made with cinnamon sticks and poured over fresh cilantro, scallions, and basil. 

Courtesy of La Food Marketa

Mexican on the Run

The food truck, currently parked for the winter outside of its commissary kitchen in Towson (6318 Sherwood Road), serves up its quesabirria tacos for a six-hour duration, typically three days a week. (Follow the truck on Instagram and Facebook for the most up-to-date hours.)

Longoria works alongside his mother and brother to prep the Tijuana-style quesabirria tacos, which are made with different cuts of beef—such as short rib or chuck roast—and seasoned with chili peppers and other spices, plus garlic and onion. The beef is marinated for 24 hours, then braised for four to six hours on a low heat.

The corn tortillas are dipped in the consomé, then loaded with the birria, cheese, cilantro, and onion before frying. They’re served with a cup of consomé for dipping. Longoria also offers his birria in the form of burritos, quesadillas, tamales (during the holiday season), and mulitas—a Los Angeles delicacy which Anthony Bourdain once referred to as a “taco sandwich.” 

“I told my mom and my brother that I thought the best choice that we had to survive, not just COVID, but to survive the winter as a food truck, was to see how far we can take the birria,” Longoria says of adding the dish to Mexican On the Run’s menu back in September. “And obviously it’s been a really big blessing.”

—Courtesy of Mexican on the Run

Nacho Mama’s

Although its Canton location is still temporarily closed, Baltimoreans can find quesabirria tacos on the menu at Nacho Mama’s location in Towson, where Mama’s On the Half Shell has also merged. 

For its birria, Nacho Mama’s follows a traditional Mexican recipe and serves the tacos with an avocado verde sauce and consomé for dipping. The birria can be served as a taco or quesadilla and also comes with rice and black beans.

“They have that comfort food factor that other dishes might not have,” says Jen Fedeli, Chief Marketing and Business Development Officer for Mama’s Restaurant Group. “They’ve taken off right now because, not only are they still tacos and they’re fun, but they also have that slow-roasted, comfort food taste.”

—Courtesy of Nacho Mama's

Papi’s Tacos

At both its Fells Point and Hampden locations, Papi’s quesabirria tacos have been on the menu as a special since January. They highlight the slow-cooked beef, Oaxaca cheese, cilantro, and onion, which are loaded in handmade corn tortillas that are dunked in consomé before frying on a flat top. They’re then topped with avocado and served with the consomé and a jalapeno crema. 

“We had been getting four or five calls a day asking if we had these kinds of tacos,” says manager Sara Ghavidel Asgari. “We were getting high demand for tacos we didn’t have. So we wanted to fulfill that need for people… As long as there’s a demand, we’ll keep it on as a special.”

Courtesy of Papi's Tacos

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The Most Desirable Dishes to Order in Baltimore This Valentine’s Day https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/valentines-day-dining-guide-2021-most-desirable-dishes-baltimore/ Tue, 09 Feb 2021 14:00:31 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=103806

To all of the Valentine’s Day skeptics out there: hear us out. During a time that has caused so much stress, we could all use a day to stop and feel the love. And what better way to treat your loved ones—and yourself—than with a few decadent dishes from a local eatery? Restaurants, bars, bakeries, grocers, and even entertainers (see The Takeout Getdown) are showing their devotion to Charm City by offering tons of amorous options for takeout, delivery, and distanced dine-in on February 14. Here are some of the many dishes, drinks, and desserts worth falling for:

AMOROUS À LA CARTE

Cafe Dear Leon: The expert pastry chefs at this Canton bakeshop have crafted a special mousse cake for the occasion. Filled with flavors of vanilla panna cotta, strawberry gelee, and white chocolate pistachio, the sweet treat is available for preorder now. 

The Charmery: Swing by one of The Charmery’s four locations to sample a scoop from the shop’s special V-Day lineup. Among the flavors is a collaboration with Baltimore’s own winemaker Montfleur Duvin—which fuses a slow-roasted peach base with caramel and Montfleur’s signature Yvonne Gewürztraminer. 

Miss Shirley’s: All locations of this beloved breakfast-and-lunch spot are extending their hours until 8 p.m. to make sure fans have time to pick up their comforting, cupid-inspired fare. The special of the day will be “Shirley’s Affair with Oscar”—a five-ounce filet topped with asparagus, crab meat, hollandaise, fried green tomatoes, and grits. Aptly themed breakfast-all-day options will include red velvet pancakes and strawberry chocolate chip cheesecake-stuffed French toast. 

Sacré Sucré: Ditch the heart-shaped boxes and enjoy an edible work of art from this Fells Point pastry shop. A lineup of special sweet endings includes heart danishes filled with raspberries and chocolate cream, almond praline truffles, a heart-shaped red velvet cake with mascarpone mousse, and, of course, the signature macarons. 

Scratch Made: Known for its focus on local ingredients, this meal delivery service makes use of purveyors such as Karma Farm in Monkton and Liberty Delight Farms in Reisterstown. For Valentine’s Day, expect offerings such as red wine-braised short ribs, roasted herbed chicken with mushrooms, spaghetti with Atlantic clams and garlic, spinach and herb lasagna, and an olive oil cake with local pears. 

"Shirley’s Affair with Oscar”—a five-ounce filet topped with asparagus, crab meat, hollandaise, fried green tomatoes, and grits.—Miss Shirley's

BELOVED BUNDLES

Aldo’s: While this Little Italy haunt remains in hibernation mode for the winter, chef Sergio Vitale is prepping meal kits to help diners celebrate with their favorites from Aldo’s. Available for curbside pickup, each kit comes with fully cooked dishes that you can reheat and finish off at home. Try the eggplant parmigiana, gluten-free meatballs, osso bucco, or Valentine’s Day brunch that highlights eggs benedict for two. Sauces by the quart, as well as garlic bread, tiramisu, and the restaurant’s famous limoncello, will also be available for pickup. 

The Bluebird Cocktail Room: Executive chef Bri White and bar manager Ben Poole put their heads together to create the perfect boozy Valentine’s Day gift: a box of chocolate-covered Luxardo cherries that are soaked in bourbon and cherry liqueur before being dunked in dark chocolate. Another Bluebird special on offer is the “Old Fashioned Romance” box, which includes a 12-oz. bottle of the bar’s signature Old Fashioned and two individually wrapped boxes of the chocolate-covered cherries. 

Bird in Hand: This Charles Village coffee shop is offering the perfect gift for the chocolate-loving bibliophiles in your life. A special holiday box includes a small bouquet arranged by Caesura Floral, a $30 gift card to Bird in Hand, and a four-piece truffle box from Pure Chocolate by Jinji at Belvedere Square. (Or, if your loved one is more of a wine person, you can opt for a bottle hand-picked from the Bird in Hand team.) 

Faidley’s Seafood: This Lexington Market staple has partnered with Catonsville’s J.W. Treuth butcher shop to deliver a magnificent meal deal. The all-inclusive feast includes two of Faidley’s signature jumbo lump crab cakes, two four-ounce cuts of filet mignon from J.W. Treuth, two cups of Maryland crab soup, one side of whipped potatoes, one order of steamed spinach, and three classic Berger cookies. 

Firefly Farms: Get fancy with curated wine, cheese, and chocolate packages from this Whitehall Market vendor. Firefly is offering bundles that include goat’s milk cheese, manchego, aged gouda, Chardonnay blends, bean-to-bar chocolates, and decadent bonbons. 

Greedy Reads: The beloved book browsing spot—which has locations in Fells Point and Remington—is putting together curated gift bags that include a personal greeting card, a book, a candle from 228 Grant Street Candle Co., and an order of macarons from Fells Point neighbor Sacré Sucré

Gundalow Gourmet: What’s more romantic than cooking together? Throw on an apron and crack open a ready-to-cook date night box from this gourmet caterer and cafe at Whitehall Market. Each will come complete with heart-shaped meatloaf, brie mac and cheese, roasted asparagus, and chocolate-covered strawberries. Pro tip: Add a few chocolate-covered rice krispy treats with sprinkles to your order for good measure. 

Charlsie’s Bakehouse: If you haven’t had a chance to check out this bakery inside Rooster + Hen at Cross Street Market, treat your sweetheart to a package that includes a dozen roses from The Baltimore Florist, ingredients to make your own Italian feast (including charcuterie, pasta, meatballs, and salad), and a red velvet roll for two—which comes filled with flavors of white chocolate, orange, and buttercream. Charlsie’s will also offer à la carte sweets including whole blood-orange cheesecakes and rose pistachio shortbread cookies. 

Sagamore Pendry: If you’re hoping to go all out with a staycation for Valentine’s Day weekend, the Sagamore Pendry is offering a package that includes a bottle of Champagne, a dozen roses, and a $60 breakfast credit for two—which is can be used for in-room dining or at the Rec Pier Chop House downstairs. 

The bottled Old Fashioned and custom chocolate-covered cherries from The Bluebird Cocktail Room. —The Bluebird Cocktail Room
One of the wine, cheese, and chocolate bundles from Firefly Farms. —Firefly Farms

ENDEARING EVENTS 


2/13: Galentine’s Day: Digital Edition 
Baltimore blogger Alysha January’s annual Galentine’s Day event might be going virtual this year, but it’s still highlighting some fabulous local eats and drinks and supporting a great cause. Here’s how it works: Choose to order takeout from one of four participating woman-owned restaurants including Fishnet, Sally O’s, The Point in Fells, or Golden West Cafe. Then, register online to guarantee a free Jägermeister cocktail when you bring a female hygiene product to donate to the Helping Up Mission while picking up your meal. After settling in with your food at home, log on for a virtual toast hosted by January and organizers with Jägermeister and Sentimental Fools Events. 

2/13-14: The Takeout Getdown
After a successful launch on New Year’s Eve, organizers Kathleen Overman and Aaron Brown are bringing back this innovative program that has one golden rule: your takeout is your ticket. Grab sustenance from No Land Beyond, Crust by Mack, Cane Collective, Dylan’s Oyster Cellar, Dutch Courage, The Land of Kush, Namaste Baltimore, The Bluebird Cocktail Room, The Urban Oyster, Grano Pasta Bar, Peabody Heights Brewery, Sentimental Fools, Heritage Kitchen, Sally O’s, or the vendors of R. House and receive a link that will grant you access to a virtual show. This time around, the entertainment lineup—which will be streamed on both Saturday and Sunday evenings—features live music spun by DJ James Nasty and hilarious sets from local comedians with the Baltimore Comedy Festival. Talk about the perfect date night. 

2/14: Virtual Valentine’s Day Cocktail Class at Golden West Cafe
Join the bar team from this Hampden go-to for a virtual class will place an emphasis on rum. Pick up all of the tools and ingredients from Golden West ahead of time and log on to learn how to craft signature spins on a Mai Tai, spiced hot cider, and a winter daiquiri.

2/14: Ekiben x Miss Carter’s Kitchen Pop-Up
We get excited every time Ekiben announces a pop-up. But with chef Cia Carter of Miss Carter’s Kitchen on board, this one is sure to be spectacular. Collaborative dishes on deck for Feb. 14 (pre-orders are live now) include crab-stuffed lamb chops, Chinese spinach hot water noodles topped with alfredo sauce, wok-charred broccolini, and Carter’s famous banana pudding. 

PASSIONATE PRIX-FIXE MENUS


Atwater’s: In addition to the scratch-made products at this local cafe chain (think iced heart-shaped cookies and raspberry rose jam), fans can choose from three fixed menus that will be available for pre-order and takeout. Main courses include roasted filet mignon with green peppercorn sauce, grilled chicken with rosemary and mushrooms, and butternut squash lasagna.

Bar Vasquez: Break out your best dinnerware to enjoy a take-home feast from this Brazilian steakhouse in Harbor East. The three-course menu includes options such as potato saffron gnocchi, roasted beet salad, wood-grilled filet mignon, bucatini with pesto and pecorino, and chocolate-covered strawberries with mascarpone whipped cream. 

The Capital Grille: The prix-fixe dinner for two from this swanky steakhouse highlights surf and turf with hand-cut filet mignon and butter-poached lobster tails. End on a sweet note with flourless chocolate espresso cake or the restaurant’s classic cheesecake. 

Charleston: While indoor and outdoor service will be a la carte, chef Cindy Wolf is preparing a three-course fixed menu for takeout Feb. 12-14. Look out for her famous she-crab soup along with roasted red beet tartare, grilled shrimp over spaghetti, lamb tenderloin, and a chocolate strawberry heart for dessert. 

Cosima: At this Hampden hotspot, chef Anthony Franklin is presenting a three-course menu with suggested wine pairings—which will be available for dine-in or takeout. Expect rustic Italian recipes including lemon caper crab cakes, salumi fritters with salsa verde, fennel-crusted pork chops, filet with crab, and white chocolate raspberry cheesecake in a chocolate-hazelnut biscotti crust. 

Duck Duck Goose: Chef Ashish Alfred is going all out with a charming carryout menu that includes an appetizer, protein, two sides, dessert, and a bottle of house wine. Decadent dishes to choose from include beef tartare, cote de boeuf, honey-glazed duck, whole-roasted cauliflower with tahini and dates, truffle mac and cheese, pomme puree, and chocolate mousse. Dine-in service at the Fells Point spot will also be available at 25 percent capacity. 

Eddies of Roland Park: Dig in to a chef-prepared menu for two that incorporates Eddie’s classics, as well as some new recipes. (Mushroom and leek risotto, anyone?) Available for delivery and pickup at both Eddie’s locations Feb. 11-14, the four-course feast features dishes such as lobster bisque, shrimp cocktail, crab cakes, pan-seared bronzino, fingerling confit with herbs, roasted-asparagus, and lots of heart-shaped desserts. Optional add-ons include sparkling beverages, red roses, and a “Chocolate Cravings” basket filled with local goodies. 

Gunther & Co.: Though there will only be a limited number of tables available at this Brewers Hill restaurant on Valentine’s Day, chef Jerry Trice is offering a virtual experience that allows diners to cook along and enjoy his dishes from home. Ingredients for the five-course tasting menu will come with video links for preparing each dish. 

H3irloom: Husband-and-wife team Dave and Tonya Thomas are spreading the love with to-go menus that highlight smoked sweet potato ravioli, pan-seared golden tilefish with collard and white bean ragu, and sous-vide jerk lamb with caramelized plantain rice. Don’t miss out on a beautiful “With Love” gift box that places Tonya’s cognac-dipped Chocolate Chess Pie Truffles in the center of 13 red roses. 

Heritage Kitchen: Chef Rey Eugenio is flexing his Filipino flavors in a four-course prix-fixe that includes shitake mushroom and snow pea shoot-stuffed dumplings, his famous coconut crab soup, spiced tamarind-glazed duck leg confit, and ube cheesecake with jackfruit whipped cream. 

Johnny’s: Roland Park locals will be happy to hear that this neighborhood mainstay is showcasing a three-course takeaway menu with optional add-ons like boozy chocolate-covered strawberries. Romantic dishes include lobster and fennel bisque, brown sugar-brined pork chops, and red velvet cupcakes. Also not-to-miss: The Cinghiale Pop-Up Market at Johnny’s will highlight a DIY holiday dinner box that includes lobster agnolotti rosso, lobster cream sauce, confit yellow tomatoes, fresh tarragon, and an arugula frisee salad. 

Magdalena: Treat yourself to chef Mark Levy’s three-course menu, which will be available for pickup from the restaurant inside Mt. Vernon’s Ivy Hotel. Start off with housemade caramelized onion and rosemary focaccia before moving on to crab and lobster spring rolls, prime rib with a twice-baked potato, smoked mushroom tortellini, and a dark chocolate and passionfruit tart. 

Ouzo Bay: The three-course menu at this Mediterranean mainstay in Harbor East kicks off with house favorites including flaky spanakopita, lamb meatballs, Wagyu-stuffed grape leaves, charred calamari, or mussels swimming in white wine. Savor main dishes such as lobster truffle risotto, pan-seared Dover sole, and locally roasted lamb shank with fava beans.

The Prime Rib: This white linen tablecloth spot at Live! Casino & Hotel Maryland is offering a fixed menu of fan favorites in honor of the Hallmark holiday. Indulge in a classic Caesar, chilled shrimp cocktail, surf and turf, Amish roasted chicken, Asian king salmon with miso glaze, and a chocolate cake with fresh berries. 

Sally O’s: Chef Jesse Scanlin is whipping up seared scallops with pistachio brown butter, wild mushroom lasagna, lobster pot pie, and her take on surf and turf with filet and jumbo head-on prawns. Call ahead to place a pickup order, which comes complete with a link to attend The Takeout Getdown.

Tagliata: Surprise your sweetie with chef Julian Marucci’s “San Valentino” menu at this Italian chophouse in Harbor East. The three-course prix fixe features potato soup with black truffle, king crab bruschetta, chicken parmesan, squid ink campanelle, tiramisu, and a lemon meringue tart.

SWOON-WORTHY SPIRITS AND BREWS

Dutch Courage: It should come as no surprise that the team at this Old Goucher gin bar has bottled a special cocktail for the occasion. The “Parisian Silk” combines Hennessy with creme de cacao, St. George pear brandy, strega, and lemon bitters. Pair the cocktail with the bar’s four-course dinner featuring roasted beets and burrata, rockfish and crab imperial, and house-made bon bons with brandied cherries. Another option is the curated “Box of Romance” that comes filled with a bottle of bubbly, tiramisu, bon bons, rosemary caramel corn, and dark chocolate-covered espresso beans.
 
Febrewary:
In celebration of Maryland Craft Beer Lover’s Month in February—which was proclaimed by Gov. Hogan in 2015—breweries across the state are highlighting warming winter releases in their taprooms. If you’re celebrating Valentine’s Day with a cold one at your favorite brewery this weekend, look for the “Love Thy Beer” logo on the draft list to find seasonal styles. Plus, check out the Brewers Association of Maryland’s site to spot tap takeovers and other events happening throughout the month. 

Guinness Open Gate Brewery: Not only is the Halethorpe facility celebrating with a sentimental screening of You’ve Got Mail in its heated outdoor tent on Feb. 11, but the team has also created a curbside pickup menu that pairs perfectly with Guinness Baltimore Blonde. Available Feb. 11-14, the three-course meal showcases shrimp cocktail, braised short ribs with lobster ravioli, roasted vegetables, and a chocolate tart with candied orange and pistachio. 

Old Line Spirits x Fuzzie’s Dinner Pairing: The team at Old Line is joining forces with chef Josh Vecchiolla of Fuzzie’s Burgers to offer two bottled cocktails with a selection of heat-and-eat dishes for two. Choose from a 32-oz. dry-aged cowboy ribeye, New York strip with a crab cake, or two jumbo crab cakes—all of which will be accompanied by burrata, Sicilian citrus salad, and potatoes au gratin. All meals will come with a “Perfect Form” bottled aperitif (vodka, sour cherry liqueur, aperol, fresh lemon juice, and housemade liqueur) and the “Out of Hand” after-dinner dessert cocktail—which combines Old Line’s Aged Caribbean rum with creme de cacao liqueur, chili poblano liqueur, and Aztec chocolate bitters. 

Sugarvale: An aptly themed cocktail will be available for pickup at Sugarvale’s sister-restaurant, Dooby’s, in Mt. Vernon this week.The pink-colored “Too Much Heaven” fuses tequila with rose water, guavaberry, lime, and cocchi rosa. 

Wet City: If you and your significant other—or BFF, roommate, or anyone else in your quarantine pod—are Aperol aficionados, go for the Aperol Date Night Flight at Wet City in Mt. Vernon. Among the many creative to-go cocktails that the bar features, this set comes with four drinks that all spotlight the bright-orange aperitif. They include the bourbon-forward “Paper Plane,” mezcal-infused “Mercury in Retrograde,” gin-based “Skøl,” and rum-focused “Jungle Bird.”

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Open & Shut: Fuku; Mona’s Super Noodle; Neo Pizza; Diablo Doughnuts https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/open-shut-fuku-monas-super-noodle-neo-pizza-diablo-doughnuts/ Thu, 04 Feb 2021 20:19:44 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=103653 Continued]]> OPEN

Fuku: If you’re a crispy chicken connoisseur, you’re going to want to get your hands on one of the massive sandos from this famed NYC concept by celebrity chef David Chang. Thanks to a partnership with NBRHD Kitchens, Fuku has set up a ghost kitchen in the Inner Harbor that now offers Baltimore delivery via Doordash, Grubhub, Postmates, and Uber Eats. (To celebrate the launch, Fuku is waiving the delivery fee through Feb. 28 if you order using Uber Eats.) First-timers are encouraged to try the classic “Spicy Fried Chicken Sando” that stacks habanero-brined chicken breast, spicy mayo, and pickles between a Martin’s potato roll. Other options include sweet-and-spicy sandwiches, chicken fingers, waffle fries, and lots of requisite dipping sauces. 

Mona’s Super Noodle: Now open in the space that previously housed Nori and Corner Charcuterie Bar on The Avenue in Hampden, this new concept highlights Southeast Asian recipes. The namesake noodle dishes are plentiful—with options ranging from traditional pad Thai and spicy drunken noodles to pho with lots of different proteins—and you can also look out for summer rolls with peanut sauce, garlic chicken with sauteed cabbage, and a traditional mango sticky rice for dessert. Online ordering is available for pickup or delivery via Grubhub, Uber Eats, and Doordash. 

Neo Pizza and Taphouse: This one-stop-shop for wood-fired pizzas and self-serve beer has officially debuted at Mount Vernon Marketplace. The Maryland chain—which also operates locations in Bel Air, Annapolis, and Columbia—features signature flavor combinations (the “Fuego” highlights marinated chicken, chorizo, jalapeño pesto, and chipotle aioli), as well as the option to build your own pie with tons of customizable crusts, proteins, and veggies. Neo joins veteran vendors including The Local Oyster and Pinch Dumplings—and newbies like Cheezy Mikes—in the communal food hall. 

DEBUTING THIS WEEKEND 

Alma Cocina Latina: We couldn’t be happier that Venezuelan hotspot Alma Cocina Latina has settled into its new home in Station North. And now, the restaurant is preparing to debut the new digs for in-person dining on Friday, Feb. 5. In accordance with Baltimore City guidelines, the restaurant will be open at 25 percent capacity with all of the necessary filtration systems in place. In celebration of the new chapter, executive chef David Zamudio and his team have tweaked the menu to include some new additions. Dishes to look out for include cheesy Tequeño Pops wrapped in crispy dough, royal sea bass ceviche with sweet potato and torched avocado, Wagyu prime rib with roasted potatoes, lentil fritter-stuffed arepas, and coconut flan ice cream. 

CH-CH CHANGES

Bramble Baking Co.: You’ve likely seen Allie Smith’s picture-perfect cakes and pastries at the 32nd Street Farmers Market. And soon, fans will be able to pick up her sweets regularly at the bakery’s first brick-and-mortar storefront on Harford Road in Hamilton-Lauraville. Smith recently signed a lease to take over the space that formerly housed Batch Bake Shop and Hamilton Bakery—which includes all of the necessary space and equipment to increase Bramble’s output. The move is made possible by nearly 250 contributors who donated more than $16,000 to a GoFundMe that was set up just over a week ago. 

Diablo Doughnuts: Owners Michael and Emily Roslan went live on Instagram earlier this week to announce that they have moved out of their Federal Hill shop in the wake of issues with the building’s landlord and upstairs tenant. Thankfully, they have found a new South Baltimore home in the Brooklyn building that also serves as a homebase for The Smoking Swine and Dizzy Cow Pizzeria. Planning a quick transition, the owners are hoping to launch online ordering on Feb. 8 and have pickups available at Blue Moon Too on Light Street beginning Feb. 12. Since first opening in Fells Point in 2015, the shop has been a local go-to for its innovative flavors including classics like the “Blueberry Basil” and Fruity Pebbles-crusted “Unicorn Farts” doughnuts. In their announcement, the owners thanked the community for its continued support and shared plans to organize more pop-ups, and roll out food truck service, in the months to come. 

NEWS

Lexington Market Launches Final Round of Vendor Applications: In advance of unveiling the redeveloped Lexington Market in early 2022, the team at Seawall Development is hard at work curating a fresh vendor lineup. The goal is for the iconic market’s 50 stalls to be a mix of old and new, with both familiar faces and little-known businesses that showcase the breadth of the city’s food scene. The second and final round of vendor applications officially launched last week, and Transform Lexington’s selection committee—which is committed to representing Black-owned, women-owned, and city resident-owned businesses—is looking for 20-30 more merchants to round out the offerings. Specifically, they are searching for concepts that specialize in vegetarian and vegan dishes, fresh produce, creole and soul food, snacks and candies, baked goods, butchered meats, Jewish and Italian deli fare, Asian cuisine, barbecue and pit beef, tacos, and Latin American cuisine. Know a vendor that fits the bill? Applications can be submitted online through March 19.

The Wine Collective Releases Vermú Rosé: The vintners at The Wine Collective in Hampden added a new offering into the mix this week with the release of their Vermú Rosé—making them one of the few dozen winemakers in the country to manufacture craft vermouth. At 16.5 percent ABV, the aperitif wine infuses natural botanicals including juniper berries, clove, chamomile, Spanish oranges, and star anise. “Vermú is an old drink for a new generation,” general director and managing partner Enrique Pallares said in a statement. “Decades ago, vermouth may have been that bizzare bottle that sits in the liquor cabinet deteriorating for years, but today it captures a way of life, enlivens our taste buds, and provokes our imaginations.” Sample for yourself by ordering a bottle online

EPICUREAN EVENTS

TO 2/7: Order Wings in Federal Hill to Support Baltimore and Buffalo Charities
After Lamar Jackson was injured in the playoff game against the Buffalo Bills a few weeks back—and the class-act Bills Mafia subsequently started a fundraiser for Jackson’s favorite charity, Blessings in a Backpack—a generous South Baltimore neighbor was inspired to launch their own community initiative to support both Buffalo and Baltimore. Through Super Bowl Sunday, the neighbor will donate $1 for every order of wings sold at Sobo Cafe, Don’t Know Tavern, Delia Foley’s, and AJ’s on Hanover to both Blessings in a Backpack and The Children’s Hospital of Buffalo Foundation. No Super Bowl spread is complete without wings, so be sure to stop by one of the participating spots this weekend to enjoy them while contributing to a great cause. 

ONGOING: Hotel Revival Hosts Virtual Black History Month Conversations
In honor of Black History Month, Mt. Vernon’s Hotel Revival has curated a series of virtual conversations with local Black business owners to discuss their trajectories, successes, challenges, and what lies ahead. The hotel’s Director of Culture and Impact Jason Bass kicked things off earlier this week by hosting the first installment with Aaron Joseph of Charm City’s own Cane Collective and Matt Aubrey of Tennessee’s Uncle Nearest whiskey distillery—which was started in 1856 by a former slave who became the state’s premier master distiller. Tune in to Hotel Revival’s Facebook page throughout the month to catch more talks with guests including Keyia Yalcin of Fishnet, William Walker of A Tribe Called Run, Kim Ellis of Breaking Bread, Bianca Willis of LTL, and Donae Burston of La Fête Rosé

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Open & Shut: Our Time Kitchen; Bar One; The Canton Local https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/open-shut-our-time-kitchen-bar-one-the-canton-local/ Thu, 14 Jan 2021 20:36:08 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=102828 Continued]]> COMING SOON 

Our Time Kitchen: In their separate endeavors, Wilde Thyme food truck owner Kiah Gibian and Just Call Me Chef founder Catina Smith have done so much good for the local food scene—whether it means organizing meal distributions throughout the pandemic or empowering female chefs of color through education and mentorship. So it shouldn’t come as a surprise that, together, they’ve dreamed up a project that is going to change the game for small food businesses. The duo recently announced that they will soon be launching Our Time, a shared commercial kitchen that will provide prep space for womxn-owned food startups. Featuring an accessible, by-the-hour rental program, a to-go window, childcare, a venue for pop-up events, cooking and business classes, and food truck rental, the hub is meant to “lower systemic barriers and create access to resources in a supportive environment.” 

“Our tribe is women,” says Smith, who was featured in a New York Times piece about the role of Black female chefs in fine dining spaces earlier this week, “especially women of color, minority women, and those in the LGBTQ community. We need to open up a safe space for us that is accessible…Especially with COVID and the ghost kitchen trend that we’re seeing a lot of right now. Many people are turning into entrepreneurs and private chefs, so this is the perfect time…Our time is now.”

Though the project is still in its early stages, its founders are hoping to unveil the space in the Old Goucher neighborhood by fall 2021. In the meantime, they will be hosting weekly “Chat and Chew” discussions on Instagram Live and organizing fundraisers (including an upcoming virtual cooking class on January 27) to help spread the word about their mission. 

Bar ONE: Bravo fanatics will be stoked to hear that Peter Thomas, former husband of Real Housewives of Atlanta regular Cynthia Bailey, is expanding his Miami-based restaurant with a new location in Harbor East. Taking over the former home of Gordon Biersch, the lively lounge will offer Afro-Caribbean and Southern-inspired cuisine such as Jamaican oxtail with butter bean stew, Louisiana barbecue shrimp, and jerk chicken penne alfredo. Slated to open in the first quarter of 2021, the luxe spot will also serve a lengthy list of tropical martinis, mules, and sangrias on its outdoor patio overlooking the waterfront. In a statement, Thomas said that he hopes to bring his “Yacht ONE” experience—a private dining cruise available for charter—to Baltimore, as well. “We are excited to open our doors to introduce our unique and craveable cuisine to an entirely new Baltimore clientele.”

Busboys and Poets: The wait is almost over, bibliophiles. This Washington, D.C. favorite announced that it had its sights on Charm City months back, and now, owner Andy Shallal is preparing to open in the 9 E. 33rd St. development in Charles Village this spring. Taking over the former Red Star Charles Village space, the famed bookstore-cafe chain will offer its menu of breakfast and brunch staples, as well as paninis, burgers, flatbread pizzas, and, of course, a robust menu of coffees and teas. Another Maryland location is slated to open in Howard County’s Merriweather district later this year. 

OPEN

The Canton Local: While many diners are still reeling from the loss of beloved Irish pubs like James Joyce, The Life of Reilly, and Ryan’s Daughter—which have all sadly closed throughout the years—there’s a new spot to quell cravings for traditional gastropub fare that pays homage to the Emerald Isle. This Canton newbie has opened its doors on South Decker Avenue, serving up all of the classics with a unique twist. Dishes to look out for include fish and chips in eggroll form with a Chesapeake remoulade, fried Brussels sprouts with Jameson honey mustard, a pit beef reuben, and Shepherd’s pie topped with a choice of mashed potatoes or cauliflower mash. 

NEWS

Foreman Wolf Takes Over the Milton Inn: In perhaps one of the greatest pandemic revivals we’ve seen thus far, Foreman Wolf Restaurant Group owners Tony Foreman and Chef Cindy Wolf have partnered with Petit Louis Bistro’s executive chef Chris Scanga to reopen The Milton Inn in Sparks this spring. The plan is to breathe new life into the storied restaurant, which is housed in an 18th-century mansion, by creating a more relaxed atmosphere. The team has brought on interior designer Katie Destefano to upgrade the space, while Scanga will revamp the menu. 

“It is his time to shine,” Foreman said of Scanga, a Culinary Institute of America grad, in a statement. “The Milton Inn is a natural extension of our overall brand.” Wolf calls it a “dream restaurant,” adding that the countryside location and expansive property for growing fresh herbs and flowers feels “meant to be.” For Scanga’s part, he’s looking forward to continuing his career with Foreman Wolf in this new venture: “I have grown as both a chef and as a person during my seven years at Louis,” he said in a statement. “To breathe new life into the historic Milton Inn is an unbelievable opportunity, a dream of mine for over a decade and a half. I am excited for this new chapter and will continue to make people happy by doing what I love.”

Local Spots Benefit from the Barstool Fund: By our count, there are now four Charm City establishments that have been chosen as recipients of Barstool Sports’ national fund to provide relief to small businesses in the wake of the pandemic. Among the local owners who have gotten the call from Barstool’s president Dave Portnoy are John Leonard of Don’t Know Tavern in Federal Hill, Jeff Carter of Dough Boy Fresh Pretzel Co. in Dundalk, Michael Clarke of Claddagh Pub in Canton, and Russ and Marigot Miller of Abbey Burger Bistro—which operates locations in Fells Point, Federal Hill, and Mt. Washington. We couldn’t be happier to see that the fund, which has raised more than $23 million for small businesses nationwide, will help some of our most beloved spots avoid layoffs and stay afloat. 

EPICUREAN EVENTS

1/15 and 1/17: Baltimore Restaurant Relief Fund Feed The Industry Events
Founded by local restaurant publicist Dave Seel, the Baltimore Restaurant Relief Fund has been supporting the industry since the earliest days of the pandemic. And now, in the midst of the second restaurant shutdown since March, that important work is continuing with meal distribution for restaurant workers. Thanks to generous funding from MileOne Autogroup, businesses like The Lunchbox Lady, Liberty Delight Farms, Urban Burger Bar, Sally O’s, and Don’t Know Tavern have been able to support their fellow hospitality workers by serving family-style meals to those in need. Upcoming distributions this weekend will be held at Max’s Taphouse on Friday, Jan. 15 and Golden West Cafe on Sunday, Jan. 17. 

1/18-31: Howard County Restaurant Week
While Baltimore City Restaurant Week has been canceled this winter (organizers are encouraging locals to safely dine at a distance instead) Howard County is hosting a COVID-friendly week of culinary deals from January 18-31. More than 25 spots are on board to offer special menus that will be available for curbside pickup, delivery, or socially distanced dine-in. It’s a great opportunity to take a drive and support an old standby, or try out a new spot like Bushel and a Peck Kitchen & Bar, Koshary by Misteka, The Periodic Table, Walker’s Tap & Table, or Xenia Greek Kouzina. Check out all of the special menus, here

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What to Expect at Toki Tako When it Opens in Hampden Tomorrow https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/what-to-expect-at-toki-tako-korean-barbecue-wraps-hampden/ Wed, 23 Dec 2020 14:52:33 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=102356

Throughout the first few months of the COVID-19 lockdown—as people began picking up pandemic pastimes like putting together puzzles and baking bread—The Local Fry owners Kevin and Elizabeth Irish started meal swapping with friends. 

“For the first two months, one of my best friends cooked everything at home and was tired of eating her own food, so we decided to do a swap and made a Korean barbecue set for her,” says Elizabeth, who has also been putting together different types of banchan (side dishes that accompany a traditional Korean meal) for her friends. “It’s sometimes people’s first time having banchan outside of kimchi and pickled onions, so it’s exciting to be able to get creative with different dishes and see what people like.”

Aside from being a fun way to connect with friends during quarantine, the meal swaps have also provided an opportunity for Kevin and Elizabeth to test out some of the recipes for their forthcoming concept, Toki Tako, which will open its doors at the Rotunda in Hampden (just a few doors down from The Local Fry) in early January. 

The fast-casual eatery will feature many of the traditional Korean barbecue meats that diners would recognize at a sit-down spot, but serve them tucked into handheld tortillas or ssam (lettuce wraps). 

“Some people might think it’s Korean-Mexican fusion, but the flavors are very authentic Korean,” says Elizabeth, whose Korean-born mother was part of the inspiration behind the concept. “I love Korean food, and one of the things I say to my mom all of the time is that, when she’s gone, that connection to Korea is going to be lost. So I’ve been asking her for recipes. When we cook together, she teaches me things that I enjoyed eating as a child, but never knew how to make myself.”

Vegan ssam box with grilled King Oyster mushrooms.
All dishes can be ordered as a taco, lettuce wrap, or rice bowl. —Photography by Justin Tsucalas

Among the signature wraps that will incorporate those classic flavors will be a spicy pork belly taco with pineapple kimchi, white onions, and yuzu cream. Other dishes to look out for will include a rotating banchan menu, a vegetarian grilled King Oyster mushroom taco, galbi (grilled short rib marinated in a garlicky soy sauce), spicy tteokbokki (rice cakes) topped with melted cheese, and bossam—aromatic steamed pork belly that is traditionally eaten during the late-autumn Korean kimchi-making festival known as Kimjang. The owners will also offer DIY meal kits that allow diners to mix and match different proteins and vegetables. 

Paired with the food, the design of the space is meant to transport visitors to an urban setting similar to modern-day Seoul. The husband-and-wife team worked with Baltimore’s PI.KL Studio to fill the restaurant with a pink and white color scheme, light woods, interior greenery, and custom furniture by local maker Luke Works. As a nod to the eatery’s name (Toki means rabbit in Korean), the interior also features arched doorways in the shape of bunny ears. 

“When we were first talking about the space, [PI.KL] had inspiration pictures of Korean streetwear, and there was this image of a bright pink puffer jacket that just immediately caught our eye,” Elizabeth recalls. “We wanted something that was very bold and pop-in-your-face that Baltimore hasn’t seen. It sets this mood where it’s very intimate, but cool.”

The Irishes plan to open with a contactless carryout model while city restaurants remain shut down. But when indoor dining eventually resumes, service will be similar to The Local Fry—allowing patrons to order at the counter and hang out at one of Toki Tako’s five bar stools or its eight-seat communal table.

—Photography by Justin Tsucalas

Elizabeth says that she and Kevin are looking forward to having both of their restaurants operate within such close proximity to one another. 

“We’re very hands-on owners,” she says. “When people come in they see us on the line prepping food at The Local Fry, and when we open Toki Tako we’re going to be just as hands-on.”

As they approach The Local Fry’s six-year anniversary in January, Kevin and Elizabeth are looking forward to introducing the concept to their current regulars and new customers alike. 

“I’m really looking forward to people trying the food,” Elizabeth says. “Koreans are known for barbecue and meat, but their daily meals are very vegetable and fish heavy—especially through banchan, which incorporates a lot of vegetables. I really want to showcase that side of the cuisine. We want to push that there’s more to Korean food than just meat and kimchi.”

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Last-Minute Takeout Ideas for Christmas 2020 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/where-to-order-christmas-takeout-2020/ Tue, 22 Dec 2020 16:04:16 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=102337 Continued]]> Despite the fact that this year has been anything but jolly for the restaurant scene, local chefs are still pulling out all of the stops for Christmas. From Feast of the Seven Fishes favorites to decadent desserts like Buche du Noel and tiramisu, there’s plenty to choose from if you’re in search of a dish to round out your celebration at home. Here are a few of the many spots offering takeout specials for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day: 

The Brewer’s Art: Fans of this Mt. Vernon brewpub will be happy to hear that The Brewer’s Art is offering a special holiday meal featuring dishes that make use of some of its most popular beers. Choose from porchetta in a Birdhouse American pale ale reduction, stuffing made with the flagship Resurrection ale, green bean casserole, and a house-made rum cake. 

Bertha’s: If you’re feeding a small crew, this Fells Point seafood spot is bundling meals for groups of 2-4 or 5-6. Pair orders of the namesake mussels (garlic, white wine, or spicy Thai) with hearty entrees such as butternut squash ravioli, shepherd’s pie, crab cakes, or chicken and broccoli casserole. 

Charleston: Have you always wanted to treat yourself to a five-star meal by chef Cindy Wolf? Here’s your chance. The James Beard Award nominee has crafted an elegant Christmas Eve menu that includes roasted chestnut soup with cinnamon poached pear, an escarole and goat cheese salad, roasted goose breast with saffron basmati rice, and Buche du Noel for dessert. 

Elkridge Furnace Inn: This historic Howard County haunt is offering a seven-course prix-fixe with wine pairings in celebration of the traditional Italian Feast of the Seven Fishes. Diners will indulge in dishes including shrimp and scallops marinated in lime and olive oil, lemon chive pasta with baby clams, sautéed flounder in a brown butter caper sauce, and lemon-almond biscotti in a cup of espresso mousse. 

Four Seasons Baltimore: Executive chef Norma Whitt is adding some holiday cheer to the kitchen at this Harbor East hotel with a special “Festive Feast” menu. Pull up to the front drive on Christmas Day to pick up dishes such as prime rib with red wine rosemary demi, crab cakes with saffron aioli, spiced carrots with pomegranate, creamed kale with parmesan crumble, and green beans almandine. 

La Scala: Visit this Little Italy staple’s online mercado (market) to fill your holiday table with fresh fish, cheeses, olive oil, salad dressing, homemade pasta, and desserts like profiteroles and classic Christmas cookies. 

Limoncello: It should come as no surprise that this South Baltimore spot has curated a special Feast of the Seven Fishes menu. Look out for dishes such as lobster bisque, flash-fried salted cod, sea scallops in a moscato cream sauce, and pan-seared branzino with lemon and garlic.

Magdalena: After the last of the gifts have been unwrapped, make your Christmas morning one to remember with this swanky spread from Magdalena inside Mt. Vernon’s Ivy Hotel. The all-inclusive package includes a bottle of bubbly, Ossetra caviar, hand-sliced smoked salmon, Cunningham’s brioche, fresh-squeezed orange juice, a bag of local Thread coffee, and all of the ingredients for chef Mark Levy’s signature scrambled eggs. 

Sabatino’s: Holiday party trays at this Little Italy haunt include the fan-favorite Bookmaker salad, baked gnocchi, Chicken Francese, eggplant parmigiana, assorted mini cheesecakes, and mini cannolis. 

Rec Pier Chop House:  A classic Christmas dinner with an elevated twist is on the menu at this hotspot inside the Sagamore Pendry Hotel. Enjoy twice-baked potato soup, roasted turkey with white wine gravy, porchetta with pear syrup, cornbread stuffing, cranberry compote, tiramisu, and a chocolate-peppermint yule log. 

Tagliata: Speaking of Italian chophouses, this one in Harbor East is offering to-go meals and prime steaks for Christmas Eve carryout. A four-course prix-fixe menu includes burrata with pears and arugula, lobster stuffed shells, braised short rib, chicken parmesan, duck breast with maple balsamic gastrique, and a chocolate budino with salted caramel. 

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Open & Shut: Sammy’s Trattoria; HalfSmoke; Eddie’s of Charles Village https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/open-shut-sammys-trattoria-halfsmoke-eddies-market-charles-village/ Thu, 17 Dec 2020 20:15:21 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=102190

COMING SOON 

Sammy’s Trattoria II: Baltimore County residents will no longer need to venture to Mt. Vernon to get their fill of pizza, pasta, pesto, and prosciutto from this authentic Italian eatery. Come spring, Sammy’s Trattoria will debut a second location in Hunt Valley Towne Centre. Featuring both indoor and outdoor service, the restaurant will offer its curated wine selection and dishes that celebrate owner Sammy Curreri’s familial roots in the regions of Sicily and Abruzzo. Among favorites are a burrata caprese salad, classic margherita pizza, duck ravioli with brown butter and sage, and Petro’s Veal Involtini in a marsala mushroom sauce. For Curreri, the mission of the restaurant is all about family: “Family is very important to me, which is why I’m proud to share the vision of this new restaurant with my wife and six children,” he said in a statement. “We are excited to bring the food, service, and welcoming atmosphere to Baltimore County.” 

Fuzzie’s: The latest local purveyors getting in on the ghost kitchen trend are brothers Josh and Brad Vecchiolla, Bel Air natives who have more than 20 years of combined experience in the hospitality industry. This weekend, the two are launching a pop-up burger concept that will operate out of Old Line Spirits in Highlandtown. “Old Line was the perfect match for us,” chef Josh Vecchiolla said in a statement. “In an unusual time in the world and with even more COVID restrictions, we wanted to offer a little piece of comfort.” The nostalgic menu—available for curbside pickup and delivery Wednesday-Sunday—will do just that with eats including beef and vegetarian burgers, fried chicken sandwiches, footlong hot dogs, and orders of fries topped with housemade sauces. Another perk: diners will also be able to add Old Line bottles (the American Single Malt whiskey is an ideal winter warmer) to their to-go orders.  

HalfSmoke: Baltimoreans will soon be able to get a little taste of D.C. by way of Canton. This Shaw-based eatery puts its own spin on the Capitol’s classic delicacy—a smoked sausage that is traditionally split down the middle before being thrown on the grill—with iterations that are topped with everything from beer cheese to peanut brittle. And founder Andre R. McCain has even added a few odes to Charm City (think crab fries and deviled eggs topped with Old Bay shrimp) to the menu in honor of the new spot’s debut. To pair with all of the eats, diners can indulge in a full bar and signature milkshake station. 

OPEN

Franklin’s Market and Mulberry’s Bar: Vendors at the recently updated Hollins Market officially welcomed some new stalls this week. Neighborhood resident Lara Sumerson, who co-owns The Back Yard bar and restaurant across from the B&O Railroad Museum, has unveiled two new concepts inside the community hub. The first, Franklin’s Market, will highlight local artisan products from the likes of Dear Globe Coffee, Cane Collective, and Trial by Fire Candle Co. Another tenant, Mulberry’s Bar, will feature wine, cocktails, and craft beer to accompany a menu of seasonal soups and sandwiches. Both of the stalls serve as a way for Sumerson to support the community that she loves. “My partner, Mike Cavanagh, and I are committed to providing for our Hollins Market neighborhood,” she said in a statement, “and to enhancing its vitality and the quality of life for residents.” 

HOLIDAY HAPPENINGS

Atwater’s Offers Cookie Kits for a Great Cause: From chocolate brittle to eggnog cappuccinos, Atwater’s is pulling out all of the stops this month. And, in the spirit of the holidays, one of its most festive offerings is giving back to a great cause. A new DIY cookie decorating kit—which is available for pickup or delivery via online ordering—features a mix of 18 gingerbread, snickerdoodle, and sugar cookies with all of the requisite frosting and sprinkles. The best part? Five dollars from every box sold will be donated to Promise Heights—a University of Maryland School of Social Work program whose team has been working tirelessly to organize food distributions and essential services for children and families in West Baltimore during the pandemic. 

The Charmery’s Christmas in Mexico: Speaking of take-home kits for a great cause—buddies David Alima of The Charmery and Carlos Raba of Clavel are teaming up for their fifth-annual collab honoring Raba’s Christmas traditions in his native Sinaloa, Mexico. Instead of whipping up their fan-favorite fried ice cream this year, they’re featuring to-go boxes that include two buñuelos (fried dough fritters) dipped in chocolate and cinnamon sugar, one quart of The Charmery’s famous hot chocolate, and two Mexican-spiced marshmallows. Proceeds from the boxes, available for pickup from all of The Charmery’s locations beginning Dec. 18 at 5 p.m., will benefit Guardian Gym—Raba’s Brazilian jiu-jitsu center that offers free classes to Baltimore youth. 

SHUT

Eddie’s Market of Charles Village: After 58 years, this St. Paul Street staple is closing its doors for good on Dec. 30 as owner Jerry Gordon prepares to retire. Gordon has agreed to sell the property to Charles Village-based developer MCB Real Estate, whose principal David Bramble told the Baltimore Business Journal earlier this week that the firm is “looking forward to being involved in its next iteration.” Throughout the years, generations of residents have relied on the store for their grocery, bakery, deli, seafood, coffee, and prepared food needs. As councilwoman Odette Ramos summed up in a tweet: “This store is a staple in our family and in our community.”

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Baltimore City Restaurants Face Second Shutdown Beginning Friday https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/uncategorized/baltimore-city-restaurants-face-second-shutdown-beginning-friday/ Wed, 09 Dec 2020 18:55:54 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=101981 Continued]]> In Mayor Brandon Scott’s first official address after being sworn in on Tuesday, he cracked down on COVID-19 restrictions—including limiting capacity for retail and museums to 25 percent—and closed food service establishments for indoor and outdoor dining until further notice. 

“As I stated yesterday in my inaugural remarks, when it comes to the wellbeing of our residents, I am not afraid to do the right thing over the popular one,” Scott said during his press conference. “This is about saving lives—nothing more, nothing less.”

The mayor went on to explain that the Baltimore Development Corporation—which has previously awarded 235 grants totaling $2.8 million to provide relief to bars and restaurants in need—will begin awarding an additional $6.5 million in grant assistance to support more than 300 Baltimore restaurants and public markets that now face another shutdown.  

Since the start of the pandemic in mid-March, restaurants have continually reinvented themselves in an effort to stay afloat with a sometimes daily change of course. 

Even before Scott’s remarks Wednesday morning, a handful of area eateries could see the writing on the wall and made the decision to close for traditional service during the height of the winter months. 

“We were hoping to get through winter with limited service on the patio,” La Cuchara’s co-owner and executive chef Ben Lefenfeld told us earlier this week. “We put the time and money in to weatherproof the patio so people could be comfortable, but we made this decision quickly in the past few days to shut down. With the number of cases rising, we just didn’t think that it was the best decision to keep conducting service out there.” 

At this point, U.S. restaurants are in economic free fall, with profit margins 91 percent lower than they were prior to COVID, according to a new report from the National Restaurant Association. In fact, according to the date, the local restaurant industry appears to be faring worse than the other parts of the country. 

“We have a more cautious population here in Maryland,” notes Lefenfeld. “We are home to a lot of hospitals and healthcare workers and a lot of families that support those healthcare workers. At least here, it’s becoming more taboo to be out dining, especially indoors at a restaurant—that coupled with the fact that we are on lockdown longer than a lot of areas of the country have all contributed.” 

Suffice it to say, as local dining destinations—once again—shift to carryout and delivery models, they are going to need more support than ever.  

“This is like March 2020,” says restaurant publicist Dave Seel, who is also the founder of the Baltimore Restaurant Relief Fund. “In some ways, we are in a better situation than we were back then—we’ve seen what works and done the trial and error. We need to go back and double down on making carryout dynamic, doing interesting carryout experiences, whatever that might look like for your brand. It’s also time to double down on the marketing of those gift cards. We have to exhaust every revenue stream to sustain ourselves and survive.”

Seel stresses that, as restaurants close for regular business, it’s important for them to stay in the public eye.

“It’s one thing to close your physical restaurant, but your brand is never closed,” Seel says. “I’d say to any restaurant that is struggling, ‘Who are your people and how are you connecting to them?’ It’s those people, those who foster a sense of community, listen to the needs of the market and their community, and put out good quality food, who are going to survive.” 

Here are some beloved spots that are doing just that.

Aldo’s Ristorante: This cherished Little Italy mainstay is planning a special menu of prepared foods for the holidays. 

Atlas Restaurant Group: Atlas is offering takeout and delivery daily from its Harbor East restaurants Italian Disco and Harbor East Deli, as well as sushi takeout Wednesday-Saturday from Azumi. The group will also be offering holiday takeout menus from its restaurants and plans to launch an online market with pantry items and prepared foods. 

Cosima: Cosima recently began a Cosima Bottega, offering kits like pastas, pizzas and more. Christmas Eve dinner will be available for takeout.  

Clavel: No need to go through burrito withdrawal just because you can’t dine under twinkly lights. This James Beard Award-nominated taqueria is still offering some of the best carryout in town, including killer cocktails and taco kits. Also, check out the snazzy merch for sale on the website—from tees and totes to ceramic copitas for sipping mezcal.

Duck Duck Goose: This Fells Point favorite is going to be offering a weekly, rotating carryout menu. Heating instructions will be provided for an elevated at-home dining experience.

Foreman Wolf Restaurant Group: All downtown restaurants operated by co-owners Tony Foreman and chef Cindy Wolf—including Charleston, Cinghiale, Bar Vasquez, Petit Louis Bistro, and Cindy Lou’s Fish House—will be shifting to carryout models. In addition, Johnny’s in Roland Park recently launched a new ordering system that includes delivery. 

The Food Market: Daily carryout and delivery specials at this Hampden favorite will include $20 entrees on Monday night, $20 crab cake and lobster mac and cheese dinners on Thursday nights, weekend brunch, and holiday specials for Christmas and New Year’s. Says owner Chad Gauss: “We are the survivor type.” 

Gunther & Co: Gunther has pivoted to a Wednesday-afternoon pickup market with some of their signature dishes, as well as meals for holiday celebrations. Also enjoy a virtual New Year’s Eve dinner with chef Jerry Trice. Pick up ingredients and cook along with the Culinary Institute of America-educated chef.  

La Cuchara: La Cuchara will continue to expand its online marketplace with high-quality seafood, meat, produce, and chef-prepared foods available for pick or delivery to supplement—or make up—your meal.

Lily’s: Elevated pub fare is the name of the game for this new concept set inside the former The Dizz. Look for Lily’s to open with carryout only in the coming weeks.

Magdalena, a Maryland Bistro: For the first time ever, this rebranded restaurant set inside The Ivy Hotel is offering takeout, along with some unique holiday gifts. 

Miss Shirley’s: All locations of this fan-favorite comfort food chain are offering online ordering for pickup via contactless curbside or takeout window. Look out for family meals, as well as rotating pancake, omelet, and French toast specials. Miss Shirley’s is also selling gift cards and encouraging diners to donate meals to first responders.

Mr. Nice Guy Cocktails: Here’s a club we can get behind. Mr. Nice Guy has started a weekly Wednesday cocktail club that will meet on Zoom at 7 p.m. Two cocktails and ingredients to follow along at home are included for takeout or free delivery. Can’t make the class? The video will be uploaded for you to watch when you can. The cocktail bar has also expanded it’s 35-plus drink menu to include a larger format and custom-made cocktails. Mr. Nice Guy offers free delivery on their entire menu, including packaged goods to Canton and Fells Point

Orto: Pasta lovers rejoice. Join this Station North restaurant’s weekly dry pasta and sauce club to get your fix. Add on Caesars, homemade focaccia, liquor, cocktails, and wine options to make it a meal. Orto will be serving a full carryout menu beginning this Sunday, with select delivery within five miles of the restaurant. 

True Chesapeake Oyster Co.: Though True Chesapeake will be temporarily closed for winter dining, oyster season is very much still in full swing. Pre-order oysters from the True Chesapeake farm or get them from any MOM’s Organic Market location to get a taste of some of the best farm-raised oysters in Maryland.

Woodberry Kitchen: Woodberry’s robust marketplace is back with plenty of pantry staples (eggs from Liberty Delight Farms, One Straw Farm popcorn, Keepwell Vinegar), plus curated gift boxes, and prepared holiday foods. (Hello, whole roasted chicken and Hanukkah latkes!) All are available for curbside pickup or delivery.

Zeke’s Coffee: The cute coffee shop will offer pickup and curbside from the Harford Road cafe, as well as delivery within a three-mile radius. The cafes are offering great gift options from apparel to coffee and coffee accessories.

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Here’s What Local Food Network Contestants are Baking for the Holidays https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/heres-what-local-food-network-contestants-are-baking-for-the-holidays/ Tue, 08 Dec 2020 15:00:16 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=101911

Few things signal the start of the holidays like Food Network’s series of sweet competitions. Each year, shows like Holiday Baking Championship and Christmas Cookie Challenge pit hopefuls against one another to craft tinsel-filled treats and festive confections in cutthroat settings. This time, among them are two of Charm City’s own.

Last month, Aubrey Shaffner, Executive Pastry Chef for Foreman Wolf Restaurant Group, competed on the seventh season of Food Network’s Holiday Baking Championship, while Alexis Nicole, owner of Alexis Nicole Cakes in Ellicott City, remains in the running in the network’s premiere season of Candy Land, hosted by Kristin Chenoweth.

We caught up with Shaffner and Nicole about what it was like to compete on the shows, holiday memories, and their favorite winter baking recipes. 

Aubrey Shaffner, Executive Pastry Chef at Foreman Wolf Restaurant Group

—Courtesy of Food Network

How long have you been working in the Baltimore food scene?
I was born and raised here in Baltimore. I left for school and then came back with my then-boyfriend, now-husband who is also in the industry and we just really wanted to re-invest what we had learned at school and from other jobs back into our city. So I’ve been back for about six years. I worked my way up from a pastry cook to a pastry chef at the Four Seasons Baltimore and Cinghiale—and now work as the Executive Pastry Chef for four properties for Foreman Wolf [which operates locals spots including Charleston, Petit Louis Bistro, and newly opened Cindy Lou’s Fish House.] 

How did you find out you’d be competing in this season of Holiday Baking Championship?
It was kind of a long process. I actually interviewed last year and unfortunately didn’t make it the first time. But I was so beyond excited when they called me this year. It was like, “it’s happening!” I was in quarantine when I got the phone call. And then, of course, the way the timing worked out, I had just started this job at Foreman Wolf two weeks prior to leaving to go shoot the show. It was kind of a whirlwind of being furloughed because of COVID, then getting on a Food Network show, starting a new job, and then the show happening. It was such a crazy, crazy experience, but also a nice bright light despite all the chaos of 2020.   

On the show, you raced against the clock to make holiday treats like quick bread wreaths and winter hat cakes. What were some of your favorite and most challenging moments throughout the competition?
I really like being challenged in general, so that was really cool to keep pushing myself. Learning the kitchen and how to work with all the cameras around you was definitely a little more intense than I had given it credit for. There are so many cameras looking at you and everyone is asking questions and it’s like, “Wait, what am I making again?” It’s such an intense environment, but that’s what made it exciting.  

One of the judges is fellow Charm City sweets master Duff Goldman—who also got his start working in a Foreman Wolf kitchen. What was it like having the chance to bake for Duff and represent Baltimore?
Duff and I joked a lot because we realized that we had a lot of similarities. Our birthdays are both near Christmas, we’re both from Baltimore, we’re both Jewish, we hate white chocolate—it was so funny how we just had so much in common. But it was also intimidating because we know a lot of the same people and we’ve been through similar circles in the industry. So it was really important to me to not only represent those other professionals that we know really well and that we’ve both worked with, but to also represent the city really well.

Absolutely. He sounds like a super easy-going guy.
He definitely takes stuff very seriously and he’s not afraid to tell you what he’s thinking, which I respect. But it was really funny—one of the times that I was serving one of my dishes to the judges, somehow Duff and I started talking about baking with our Jewish grandmas. It was just really funny to reminisce about, not only where we both live and people we know, but also the culture that we both came from. It was really fun to just kind of joke and be people—to be professionals together.

In the show’s first episode, you shared that your family celebrates both Christmas and Hanukkah—not to mention your birthday, which falls on Christmas Eve. Growing up, what was a typical holiday season like?
Oh my gosh. Holidays were truly insane. Hanukkah overlapped with Christmas was—I don’t wanna say the worst—but like, the most intense. There’d be some years where it was like “Okay, we’re gonna light the menorah. Now we’re gonna blow out the birthday candles. Now open your Christmas Eve pajamas so we can get ready for Santa Claus.” I was just mind blown, but it was fun. It kind of sucked as a kid, you know, not being able to have birthday parties or take cupcakes to school for your friends. But my mom and my dad always did such a great job trying to separate the holidays and make my birthday still feel special.

Tell us a bit about your favorite holiday dessert recipe?
For me, Christmas dinner dessert was a birthday cake. So I’m pulling a little bit more from my in-laws’ side. I remember when I first became part of the family, there were a couple of years where we’d actually go to my in-laws’ super late on Christmas Eve and spend the night so we could be there for Christmas morning. So we would wake up at my in-laws’ and do Christmas morning there. And every year, my sister in-law made cinnamon rolls for the whole family. 

Aubrey’s Favorite “Cinnabon” Cinnamon Rolls

—Courtesy of Aubrey Shaffner

Ingredients


For the rolls:

  • 1 ¼ ounce package active dry yeast
  • 1 cup warm milk (105 degrees)
  • ½ cup sugar
  • ⅓ cup margarine, melted
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 2 eggs
  • 4 cups flour

For the filling:

  • 1 cup packed brown sugar
  • 2 ½ tablespoons cinnamon
  • ⅓ cup margarine, softened

For the icing:

  • 8 tablespoons (1 stick) margarine, softened
  • 1 ½ cup powdered sugar
  • ¼ cup (2 ounces) cream cheese
  • ½ teaspoon vanilla
  • ⅛ teaspoon salt


Instructions

  1. Dissolve yeast in warm milk in large bowl.
  2. Mix together sugar, margarine, salt and eggs. Add flour and mix well.
  3. Knead the dough into a large ball using your hands, dusting lightly with flour. Put in a bowl, cover and let rise in a warm place about one hour, or until the dough has doubled in size.
  4. Roll the dough out on a lightly floured surface until it is approximately 21 inches long, 16 inches wide, and about ¼ inch thick.
  5. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. 
  6. For the filling, combine the brown sugar and cinnamon in a bowl. Spread the softened margarine evenly over the surface of the dough and then sprinkle the cinnamon and sugar evenly over the surface.
  7. Working carefully, from the top (21-inch side) roll the dough to the bottom edge.
  8. Cut the rolled dough into 1 ¼ inch slices and place six at a time, evenly spaced, in a lightly greased baking pan. Let the rolls rise again until doubled in size (about 30 minutes.) Bake for 10-15 minutes or until light brown on top.
  9. Combine icing ingredients. Beat well in a mixer until fluffy.
  10.  Coat rolls with icing.

Alexis Nicole, Owner of Alexis Nicole Cakes in Ellicott City

Alexis Nicole (far left) poses with her teammates on the set of 'Candy Land.' —Courtesy of Food Network

Tell us a bit about yourself and what inspired you to enter the competition
I’m from Ellicott City, Maryland and I own Alexis Nicole Cakes. I really was inspired to go after Candy Land. I mean, I always dreamed of being on the Food Network, so any opportunity I saw to apply and get in there, I took. But this one kind of fell into place and obviously, candy and sweets are my shtick. Just having the opportunity to be around all that candy was pretty appealing to me. 

I know a lot of the contestants mentioned that they played Candy Land growing up. Was that you as a kid, as well?
Me and my sister used to play Candy Land all the time. I wasn’t very good at it, so I was hoping to be a little bit better at cooking it.

Did the game prepare you at all for what you were about to step into?
Absolutely not. It prepared us to know the lands, I guess. But the amount of twists and turns that this show has thrown at us is a lot. I don’t think that anything could have really prepared us for that.

For the competition, real candy was used to recreate Candy Land’s whimsical regions, like Gumdrop Mountains and Lemon Lime Springs. How did it feel stepping onto a set that’s completely edible?
It was pretty magical. The amount of work that went into that set—it was incredibly immersive. You could just walk around and pick things up off of the ground and eat them. It felt kind of Willy Wonka-ish. You watch the movies and stuff growing up, and then to have that experience in real life is pretty incredible. I’m definitely a snacker, and a stress eater, so having snacks on hand 24/7 in stressful situations was a huge plus.

On the show, teams are challenged to craft sugary confections inspired by the board game. What have been some of your favorite and most challenging moments throughout the competition thus far?
In the first episode, a lot of it was just about adapting to the situation. It was my first time being filmed, so overall the stress of it being new, being in this land, and then also having to dive into a working environment, it was  challenging. I was working with people that I had never worked in a kitchen with, and six hours is not a lot of time to complete a big thing. You get very overzealous with what you’re going to do, and you think “Okay, I’ve got four very talented people working with me. We can definitely whip out this crazy thing.” And time gets away from you very fast.

But then there’s also that fun, exciting competition aspect there, too.
Yeah. I mean, the entire thing was just a blast. We tried not to take it all too seriously. We wanted to put all of our imagination into it and to dive back into this kind of childlike place in our minds. 

The show brings 20 of the world’s best bakers and sugar artists together. What was it like being able to work with The Pink Team?
I absolutely love every single person on my team. We became like family throughout the entire experience. I noticed that, in this industry, when you’re thrown into stressful situations, you rely on those people that are closest to you, and it makes it so that you become a lot closer a lot faster. We kind of like to think of ourselves as a little bit like The Breakfast Club because we were just so opposite in so many ways. But at the end of the day, we knew that we were each other’s support system. We knew that it was stressful and that everybody deserved to be there for a reason, so when one person was falling behind, we tried to pick them back up. In that regard, I could not have asked for a better team. 

They made my first Food Network experience incredibly enjoyable. I know that in a competition, and in this industry, that’s not always the case. You can get a little bit taken over by that competition and the stress, and it makes it not as enjoyable. But with them, it was every single second—we were laughing and we were just having a good time. Andrew [Fuller] was my best buddy. We were complete opposites on the exterior, but we clicked. Every single thing that came out of his mouth, I was like “Oh my gosh. Me too!” We were like fraternal twins.

What did it mean for you to have the chance to represent for Ellicott City?
It was really fun. I have a lot of people rooting for me in Maryland, so when that first episode came out, my phone was blowing up. I don’t really think that I would be where I’m at without the support of my hometown, so I’m glad that I can give them something back [in the form of] an entertaining show.

The Holiday season wouldn’t be complete without sugary treats like the ones found in Candy Land. Tell us about your favorite holiday dessert recipe.
I would probably say my apple cider bread pudding. I know that it’s not cake, and I do dwell towards cake, but I’m a big sucker for bread pudding and I’m a big sucker for apple cider. I just take a regular old bread pudding recipe, add some diced Granny Smith apples to it, and then drizzle it with an apple cider reduction. It is to die for.

Alexis’ Apple Cider Bread Pudding

Ingredients

 

For the pudding:

  • 3 eggs
  • ½ cup milk
  • ¼ cup sugar
  • Vanilla bean
  • ½ teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
  • Cubed brioche (about half a loaf)

For the apple cider reduction:

  • 3 cups raw apple cider
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • About 5-6 cloves

For the eggnog mascarpone topping:

  • 1 cup heavy whipping cream
  • ¼ cup eggnog
  • 1 ½ tablespoon sugar
  • ½ teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
  • ½ cup mascarpone
  • Vanilla bean

Instructions

For the pudding:

  1. Whisk eggs, slowly add milk while continuing to whisk.
  2. Whisk in sugar, vanilla bean, and pumpkin pie spice.
  3. Place cubed brioche in separate ramekins.
  4. Pour egg mixture over the brioche.
  5. Allow bread to soak up the mixture.
  6. Bake at 350 degrees for about 45 minutes.

For the apple cider reduction
Place all ingredients in a pot. Simmer until thick

For the eggnog mascarpone topping:

  1. In a mixer, whip heavy cream, eggnog, sugar and spice together to get a soft peak.
  2. Add mascarpone and vanilla bean. Whip to stiff peak.

To finish the dish: 

  1. Remove cinnamon and cloves from reduction.
  2. Top bread pudding with mascarpone cream.
  3. Pour apple cider reduction over the dish.
  4. Serve immediately.

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Open & Shut: Noisy Burger; Joe Squared; James Joyce https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/open-shut-noisy-burger-joe-squared-james-joyce/ Thu, 03 Dec 2020 21:02:17 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=101835 Continued]]> BURGER BUZZ

Noisy Burger: R. House regulars most likely remember this burger joint, which first brought its stacked patties and crispy fries to the food hall’s rotating pop-up stall in 2017. Co-founders Chris Landrum and Nick Mitchel, the brains behind local production agency Noisy Tenants, teamed up with culinary students from Mergenthaler Vocational Technical High School to operate the eatery. And now, Noisy Burger is officially back as a permanent vendor inside the Remington dining destination. 

“After the pop-up, we recognized the opportunity to continually make a positive impact on the youth of Baltimore and decided to relaunch the Noisy Burger brand,” Landrum said in a statement. “Our goal is to serve great food but to also provide opportunities for young people to gain experience in their areas of interest and contribute to their personal and professional growth.” 

Now open Wednesday through Sunday in the stall that formerly housed On Top Hot Dogs + Burgers, the spot specializes in beef and turkey burgers that can be customized with everything from lettuce and tomato to bleu cheese crumbles and sautéed onions. 

The Urban Burger Bar: Speaking of burger joints opening inside of food halls—chef Jasmine Norton of The Urban Oyster is unveiling her spinoff patty palace inside Whitehall Market in Hampden on Friday, December 4. Featuring her namesake burgers jam-packed with toppings between buttery buns, Norton’s menu lists varieties such as the Simpleton (local angus beef with cheddar and signature sauce), the Bay Burger topped with crab dip, and the vegetarian Shroom burger with caramelized onion and mixed greens. Pair yours with hand-cut fries, onion rings, and specialty shakes in flavors like banana pudding and strawberry shortcake. 

COMING SOON

Joe Squared: Fans of this 15-year-old Station North staple will be happy to hear that the restaurant is reopening its doors this month after taking a nine-month hiatus in the wake of COVID-19. With support from the Central Baltimore Partnership and Baltimore Roundtable for Economic Democracy, the revived Joe Squared will operate under a worker-owned cooperative model—much like other local food hubs including Red Emma’s, Taharka Bros., The Greener Kitchen, and Mera Kitchen Collective—which allows each worker-owner to be a decision-maker in the business. 

“Research shows that worker-owned businesses have the resiliency often needed to get through a crisis,” owner Joe Edwardsen said in a press release. “We believe that this is the business model for the future and, more importantly, an important thank you to those people who have made Joe Squared what it is today—our employees.” 

This month, the nationally acclaimed dive will bring back its famous square pies and risottos for delivery and takeout while the team works to expand outdoor seating, renovate the indoor dining space, and set up a small retail area with to-go food. “It feels like we’re giving birth to a new Joe Squared,” sums up Edwardsen. 

Lily’s: In case you missed it—Orto owner Elan Kotz has partnered with hospitality veteran Mary Zayaruzny to breathe new life into The Dizz in Remington. The iconic dive bar will reopen as Lily’s, a restaurant that emphasizes elevated pub grub while maintaining the welcoming atmosphere that made The Dizz a neighborhood haunt for decades. Read more about plans for the menu and interior, here

BOOZE BULLETIN

Lost Ark Distilling Partners with Goetze’s: Just in time for the holidays, Columbia’s Lost Ark Distilling Company has created a hyper-local liqueur crafted with Baltimore’s own Domino sugar and Goetze’s caramel creams. The aptly named Caramel Creams Liqueur, which will be available at the distillery and regional liquor stores, is 30 proof with notes of rum and vanilla from the centers of the classic candies. The team recommends sampling the seasonal sip over ice, in a spiked tea or coffee, or shaken in a holiday cocktail. 

DuClaw Brewing and Wild Kombucha Cocktails at La Food Marketa: In yet another boozy holiday collaboration, the teams from DuClaw Brewing Company and Wild Kombucha have put their heads together to create festive cocktails that will be available at La Food Marketa in Pikesville throughout the month of December. Bartender Vince Castro, who also collaborated on the final products, will be shaking up drinks including the “Berry Christmas” (DuClaw’s Funk blueberry citrus wheat with Elderberry Wild Kombucha and cranberry juice) and the “Cerveza Regular,” which combines the brewery’s Regular Beer with lime juice, tequila, and Wild Kombucha’s Icara Yerba Mate. 

SHUT

The James Joyce Irish Pub: Earlier this week, guests attempting to dine at this Irish classic in Harbor East were met with a sign on the front door indicating that the restaurant had closed. For nearly two decades, the spot has been a go-to for authentic pub fare and live music in the neighborhood—which also recently saw the closure of Roy’s just a few doors down. Regulars will certainly miss the shepherd’s pie, annual St. Patrick’s Day bashes, and boozy Irish coffees come winter.

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The Dizz Will Reopen as Lily’s in Remington https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/the-dizz-will-reopen-as-lilys-in-remington/ Wed, 02 Dec 2020 19:12:48 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=101755 Continued]]> Fifteen months after The Dizz dropped its last chicken tenders in the fryer, the iconic Remington restaurant and proverbial corner bar at 300 W. 30th Street is reopening as Lily’s.

Co-owner Elan Kotz, who also owns Orto, has partnered with Baltimore transplant Mary Zayaruzny on the restaurant—which is hoping to open its doors before the end of the year. 

Zayaruzny, who boasts an impressive resume in the hospitality industry, has worked in the front of the house at myriad hotspots including the Michelin-starred Empellon and Public in New York City, as well as Stephen Starr’s Upland in Miami.

The restaurant will have 75 seats indoors and 28 seats on its outdoor patio.  

“The Dizz was our approachable Baltimore kind of comforting local spot,” says Kotz, “and Lily’s will be similar—it’s going to be that Remington iconic joint that’s the place for everyone.” 

Lily’s pays tribute to Zayaruzny’s late paternal grandmother, who immigrated from Kiev with her family in the ’90s. “She was an incredible host, warm and loving and just wanted to shower you with food and beverage and music and singing,” Zayaruzny says. “She was just the consummate host who loved family and fun.”

That same sense of family and fun will translate to the offerings at Lily’s, which will have an affordable price point and focus on elevated, yet playful pub grub including sandwiches, soups, salads, snacks, and burgers, plus fried chicken with maple glaze and crab cakes with Texas toast.

The focus, explains Zayaruzny, will be, “an American kitchen that’s all about fresh, simple, craveable comfort food.”

Much like The Dizz, burgers—from one version with mushrooms, onions, Fontina cheese, and black pepper-truffle mayo to a classic smashburger with special sauce and pickles—will also be a highlight. 

“The Dizz was known for its serious burger program so ours pales in quantity, but quality will prove itself to be pretty spectacular,” Zayaruzny says. And in true Baltimore fashion, “you can add crab to anything on the menu,” she says.

For those who don’t want to dine in, Lily’s will offer a “robust to-go program,” says Zayaruzny, “and all of our food will be ready to travel and well-packaged.”

As for the bar program, the focus, like the food, will be on simplicity, seasonality, and freshness. “We are going to feature specialty cocktails from The Dizz’s Rolodex,” Zayaruzny says of the Rolodex found in the basement of the former decades-old restaurant. “The cocktail recipes were written on a typewriter—we will offer cocktails from old iterations of the bar.”

In addition, the restaurant will operate as a bottle shop with wine, beer, cocktails, and local organic mixers at the ready for the road. (Interestingly, the corner house has a long history as a bar. The first liquor license issued to its address was in December 1934 when it was a bar called Mitchell’s.)

Kotz and Zayaruzny also have a third partner, Baltimore-based metal fabricator Erik Anderson of Gunnar Designs, who helped imagine the space with wood, leather, and steel. The interior will also feature warm patterned wallpapers with pops of Lily green and magenta. Other additions will include floating bottles hanging above the front bar and a one-of-a-kind piece by local contemporary artist Matthew Gray, but the owners assure that the iconic brick fireplace will remain untouched.  

“It will be all about simplicity and clean lines, while still keeping the warmth and comfort of walking into your favorite local spot with little nooks and crannies and some seriously Instagrammable moments in the design,” Zayaruzny says.

Kotz admits that the timing of the transformation has been difficult. He purchased the property in February 2020, just three weeks before the pandemic hit, and had planned to put the project on hold. But a chance meeting with Zayaruzny convinced him otherwise. 

“I’m a big believer that everything happens for a reason,” he says. “We are grateful that we are able to do this now. It got hairy for a minute and it was super stressful trying to keep Orto rocking and rolling while this property was sitting there asking me what I was going to do with it, but this has been the most organic process and it came together beautifully. There’s no blueprint for this, but we are lucky to have the opportunity.

Above all, for Kotz, this is very much a passion project. 

“I loved The Dizz,” he says. “I’d go to The Dizz biweekly for a burger and sit and read The New Yorker and hang out. It was a special place for lots of people and we are going to make Lily’s a special place for those people, too.” 

That said, Kotz promises, “The Dizz won’t be forgotten.”

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Open & Shut: Charming Elephant; 818 Market; Bondhouse https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/open-shut-charming-elephant-818-market-bondhouse/ Thu, 19 Nov 2020 17:44:38 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=101205 Continued]]> OPEN

Charming Elephant: This new Boston Street spot is bringing the flavors of Laos to Canton. In just a few weeks since its grand opening, Charming Elephant has already captured a following with dishes including a traditional papaya salad (shredded green papaya with house fermented fish sauce and cherry tomatoes), skewered sweet-and-sour meatballs, pork sausage with lemongrass and sticky rice, and a Lao banh mi filled with shredded pork and pickled papaya. Order takeout or delivery via Grubhub and UberEats, or check out the catering menu if you’re planning a small feast for Thanksgiving. 

818 Market: For more than two years, Catonsville locals have been patiently awaiting the debut of this gourmet grocer and restaurant on Frederick Road. Earlier this week, co-owners Pat Baldwin and Dan Zakai officially cut the ribbon. The hybrid concept not only features thoughtfully curated bakery, cafe, flower, cheese, produce, butcher, and deli departments, but it also houses its own restaurant, full bar, and bottle shop upstairs. Safety protocols are in place for in-store shopping, or, if you’re hoping to stock up on holiday essentials without leaving home, 818 Market is offering Thanksgiving delivery within 10 miles of Frederick Road. 

Bondhouse: Throughout the years, Fells Point locals frequented the building at 701 S. Bond Street for live music at Fletcher’s, epic dance battles at The Get Down, and stiff drinks at Sir Duke. Now, owner Bryan Burkert—who also owns The Sound Garden in the neighborhood—is breathing new life into the space yet again. This time, he’s exploring an American farmhouse restaurant and cocktail bar. “When the inspiration comes, it’s exciting to be able to switch things up and do something new,” Burkert told us in 2017. Highlighting rustic woods, flowery wallpaper, and lots of interior greenery, Bondhouse offers “farm-to-harbor” fare that makes use of local ingredients. Dishes to look out for include chicken and dumplings, an ember-roasted beet salad, braised short ribs, and wild-caught fish with lemon and tomato orzo.  

THB Bagelry + Deli Columbia: When Tony Scotto first moved to Maryland from Italy in 2005, he got his start at his family’s restaurant, Strapazza, in Columbia. Now, the owner and CEO of THB Bagelry + Deli is returning to those old stomping grounds to unveil THB’s fifth location—which officially opens to the public today in the Columbia Crossing shopping center. Featuring 74 seats and custom Italian furniture, the cafe’s largest eatery yet will offer the same scratch-made bagels, spreads, sandwiches, and coffees that loyalists have come to know and love in Towson, Timonium, Canton, and Charles Village. But diners can also look out for a few exclusive menu items such as honey-walnut spread, jalapeño cream cheese, and an avocado-mozzarella panini. THB’s expansion efforts are expected to continue next year with a new location in Owings Mills. 

NEWS

NiHao Tops Esquire’s Best New Restaurants List: Earlier this week, Esquire’s food and drinks editor Jeff Gordinier reaffirmed what we already know—NiHao is one to watch. Coming in at No. 4 on the magazine’s annual list of the Best New Restaurants in the country, the raved-about Szechuan spot was lauded for its “categorization-defying” food that “pays loving, absurdly delicious tribute to the ways that Chinese cooking is interpreted around the world.” Read about the owners’ journey to open their Canton restaurant during the pandemic—and learn more about their famous Peking duck and other takeout staples—here.  

True Chesapeake Teams Up With MOM’s Organic Market: Just in time for the holidays, the team from True Chesapeake Oyster Co. has partnered with MOM’s Organic Market to bring the signature Skinny Dippers and Huckleberries straight from their St. Mary’s County farm to stores across the region. Shoppers can pre-order boxes of 12, 25, 50, or 100 oysters by Wednesday for pickup at their local MOM’s on Friday or Saturday. The best part? The True Chesapeake team–which includes farmer Patrick Hudson, chef Zack Mills, and shucker Nick Schauman–has posted tons of oyster recipes in an effort to bring a taste of their Hampden restaurant to your table at home. 

EPICUREAN EVENTS 

11/19: Pints + Pies Cajou Tasting at TreeHouse Cafe
Nothing ends a Thanksgiving meal quite like pie and ice cream. Tonight, the chefs at TreeHouse Cafe are offering a chance to stock up. The team will be outside of their Hampden storefront from 5-6:30 p.m. offering samples of their vegan and gluten-free pies paired with local Cajou ice cream. Stop by to pick up an apple crisp, sweet potato pecan pie, or pumpkin cheesecake paired with a pint of Cajou’s vegan horchata ice cream. If you can’t make it, the cafe is offering a 10-percent discount on online orders throughout the day.

11/21: Kitsch x Fond x Grace Pizza Party
Kitsch, the new breakfast-sandwich haven in Tuscany-Canterbury, is hosting its first culinary crossover this weekend. Not only will the event offer pizza and ice cream from chef Ryan Westover’s retro food truck, but it will also serve as a sneak peek at Bond—the after-hours pop-up featuring Korean barbecue sandwiches, bibimbap, and other snacks that is expected to debut inside the cafe next month. Swing by to chow down on classic margherita, chili-braised brisket, and pepperoni pies alongside orders of veggies (think swiss chard kimchi and butternut squash Jorim) off of the Bond menu. 

SHUT

Baby’s on Fire Fells Point: Sadly, this cozy coffee shop’s days are numbered. Owners David and Shirlé Koslowski took to social media earlier this month to announce that Baby’s on Fire in Fells Point, which is attached to The Sound Garden, would be closing its doors on Dec. 30. “Unfortunately, the pandemic kicked our ass at this location before we were able to really dig into the Fells community,” the owners candidly shared. They went on to thank their customers, and assured that their flagship record store-cafe in Mt. Vernon would (thankfully) remain open.

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Thanksgiving Takeout Options to Enhance Your Holiday Feast https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/thanksgiving-takeout-guide-2020/ Mon, 16 Nov 2020 15:00:04 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=101078

If there was ever a year to ditch the oven mitts and let a local chef do the Thanksgiving cooking, it’s 2020. With health officials discouraging large gatherings, many holiday celebrations are undoubtedly going to look a bit different this year. So why not break with tradition and order in? It’s a great way to give yourself a break from dish duty and stay safe with individually packaged meals that will avoid crowding around a buffet table. And, perhaps most importantly, it’s an ideal opportunity to support your favorite restaurants, caterers, bakeries, bars, and bottle shops when they need it the most. Here, we break down some of the best options to enhance your holiday table: 

Catered Classics

Atwater’s: Whether you’re in need of breads, sides, or a full turkey dinner, this local cafe chain has you covered. Choose from seasonal offerings such as smashed potatoes, Maryland-style sauerkraut and apples, plum-vanilla jam, and sausage and cornbread stuffing. And don’t forget to add on a few of owner Ned Atwater’s signature cheeses.

Braglio Farms: In addition to free-range smoked or roasted turkeys, the menu from this Woodstock farm includes country-style maple sausage stuffing, ham hock green beans, bacon-braised collard greens, and pumpkin pies.  

Chef Cat x Wilde Thyme Baltimore: With chefs Catina Smith of Just Call Me Chef and Kiah Gibian of Wilde Thyme Baltimore at the helm, we’re sure this collaborative menu is going to be nothing short of spectacular. Choose to order pre-made pies and sides, or opt for DIY kits that come with step-by-step instructions for making maple-sage root vegetables and roasted Brussels sprouts. 

The Classic Catering People: No matter what your celebration looks like, this Owings Mills-based caterer has a menu to meet your needs. The list of offerings includes three different prix-fixe packages, a vegetarian spread, and plenty of a la carte options. Among them are bite-sized pear and ricotta appetizers, three-cheese baked macaroni casserole, roasted root vegetables, and loaves of pumpkin bread.  

Eddie’s of Roland Park: Let the team at this Roland Park staple take care of the food prep with their “Holiday in a Box” offerings. Available for curbside pickup and contactless delivery, the convenient dinners include turkey, stuffing, cranberry-orange relish, and other classics. If a rosemary-apricot martini sounds like the ideal accompaniment, Eddie’s is hosting a virtual cocktail class with Nikki Davidson of Cocktail Crafty on Nov. 19. 

Four Seasons Baltimore: Treat yourself with the quintessential fall fixings from this Harbor East institution. The Four Seasons’ culinary team will be prepping slow-roasted turkey with herb gravy and cranberry-orange relish, whipped potatoes, cinnamon-marshmallow sweet potatoes, roasted root vegetables, and more. 

Gourmet Girls: This Baltimore County go-to, which recently expanded into new digs in Pikesville, is offering local Albright Farms turkeys, Sugar Bakers’ sweets, and arrangements from Flowers & Fancies. Plus, look out for gourmet sides including Yukon Gold mashed potatoes, candied sweet potatoes topped with pecans, honey-roasted butternut squash, and sausage, apple, and cornbread stuffing. 

Gundalow Gourmet: Chef Dana Sicko is on casserole duty this year. Her shop inside Whitehall Market in Hampden is offering mushroom leek sourdough stuffing, white cheddar scallion corn pudding, sweet potato gruyere gratin, a classic mac and cheese, and more. In addition, the shop is featuring vegetable dishes, baked goods, charcuterie platters, wines, and mixers like Cane Collective’s spiced pear punch. 

Santoni’s Marketplace & Catering: If you’re feeding a small crew, look no further than the experts at this Glyndon standby. A traditional Thanksgiving dinner package includes a 12-pound turkey, green beans almondine, mashed potatoes, gravy, herb stuffing, cranberry relish, dinner rolls and two large apple or pumpkin pies. 

Pies made by The Classic Catering People.—Courtesy of The Classic Catering People

New and Noteworthy

Bin 604: Now settled at its new location above Whole Foods on South Central Avenue, this local bottle shop will be open from 9 a.m.-1 p.m. on Thanksgiving Day. Stock up with a special “Turkey Pack” that includes six wine varieties (both reds and whites) for $74.99. 

Cafe Dear Leon: Expect the usual out-the-door lines at this wildly popular Canton Square bakery on the days leading up to Thanksgiving. Cafe Dear Leon is offering bourbon apple pecan, pear almond, and classic pumpkin pies for pre-order and pick up Nov. 24-26.

Charlsie’s Bakehouse: This sweets shop inside Rooster + Hen at Cross Street Market is all about new takes on old favorites. That motto certainly translates to its holiday offerings, which include pumpkin hand pies, smoked paprika cornbread, apple spice cake, and pumpkin buttermilk pie with rosemary caramel and creme fraiche cream. 

England Eatery: This Southwest Baltimore newbie is whipping up an all-out seafood spread in honor of the holiday. Each order comes with crab-stuffed salmon, fried garlic butter shrimp, two sides, and a whole sweet potato pie or banana pudding cheesecake for dessert. 

H3irloom Food Group: Since stepping away from Ida B’s Table last year, husband-and-wife duo David and Tonya Thomas have created this umbrella concept for their catering and food education projects. And they’re kicking things off with a drool-worthy Thanksgiving menu that includes traditional recipes such as candied sweet potatoes, spiced pecan pie bread pudding, sauerkraut with smoked meats, green beans, and roasted Brussels sprouts. All orders can be picked up from the H3irloom kitchen at soon-to-open event venue, The Sinclair, in Northeast Baltimore. 

Sally O’s: Chef Jesse Sandlin is celebrating the first Thanksgiving at her new Canton spot with 12-18-pound turkeys, Velveeta-style shells and cheese, creamed spinach, braised greens, and deep-dish apple cobbler pie. Pre-orders are open through Saturday, November 21. 

Thacher & Rye: Chef Bryan Voltaggio’s new Frederick restaurant is highlighting a holiday box complete with buttery mashed potatoes, orange-cranberry compote, fall greens with walnuts and sherry vinaigrette, braised kale with smoked turkey tails, and pumpkin pie with whipped vanilla cream. 

The truffle mac and cheese from Duck Duck Goose. —Courtesy of Duck Duck Goose

Reliable Restaurants

Charleston: Though it’s not available for takeout, chef Cindy Wolf’s annual holiday feast is a great way to switch up your typical Turkey Day routine. The three-course prix-fixe offers options such as shrimp bisque, fried green tomatoes, braised beef short rib, and roasted turkey breast with pecan stuffing and sweet corn. 

The Corner Pantry: Though they’ve already sold out of whole turkeys, the team at this Mt. Washington standby has put together a mouthwatering menu with plenty of other holiday eats. Indulge in dishes such as roasted chicken with lemon and herbs, wild mushroom tarts, caramelized onion dip, scallion and nutmeg mashed potatoes, and a pumpkin s’mores pie.

The Choptank: Not only is Atlas Restaurant Group carrying on its tradition of distributing free turkeys to staff this year, but the team is also giving away 1,000 additional turkeys to those in need. First-come, first-served distribution will be held at the group’s Fells Point crab house on Monday, November 23 beginning at 11 a.m.

 Duck Duck Goose: Chef Ashish Alfred and his team at this Fells Point hotspot are doing the cooking so you don’t have to. Choose from proteins such as honey-glazed turkey, tenderloin roast, herb-roasted chicken, or cote de boeuf. Unique family-style sides include radicchio salad, pomme puree with gravy, honey-roasted beets, and truffle mac and cheese. 

Dutch Courage: The hospitality professionals at this Old Goucher gin bar have whipped up a four-course prix-fixe menu that will be available for dine-in or carryout on Thanksgiving. Guests can choose from dishes such as butternut squash bisque, pit-roasted ham, vegetarian mushroom “crab cakes,” sweet mashed potatoes with garlic and maple butter, and pecan peanut butter pie.

Dylan’s Oyster Cellar: The “Everything But the Turkey” menu at this Hampden hangout features something for everyone—from local oysters to oven-ready sides. In addition to classics such as corn pudding, butternut squash soup, and glazed sweet potatoes, the restaurant is offering Maryland specialties like crab dip and oyster stuffing. 

Forno: If you’re planning a small Friendsgiving shortly before or after the holiday, this downtown destination is a great option. While Forno will be closed on Thanksgiving Day, the restaurant will be offering a full Turkey Day feast with wine pairings for dine-in and carryout Nov. 19-28. 

Gertrude’s Chesapeake Kitchen: Pull up to the Baltimore Museum of Art to grab curbside meals from this Chesapeake-inspired staple. The list of holiday offerings includes prix-fixe meals for four, a la carte sides, and a DIY kit that includes all of the ingredients for a massive leftovers sandwich. Plus, don’t miss out on themed to-go cocktails including the “Thankful Saint” (mulled wine, elderflower liqueur, mango, and peach juice) and the “Apple Angel,” which combines apple pie whiskey with cider and apple brandy from Baltimore Spirits Co.

Gunther & Co.: From to-go hot toddies to chocolate bourbon pecan pie, this Canton restaurant has all of the essentials for a full-blown feast. Check out the holiday takeaway menu, which also features a half-turkey, shrimp cocktail, house rolls, and a seasonal flower arrangement from Flowers & Fancies. 

Johnny’s: Look no further than this Roland Park mainstay for holiday classics. Available for dine-in or carryout, the restaurant’s three-course prix-fixe menu features dishes including a mushroom tart, turkey platter, stuffed acorn squash, and pan-seared blackened rockfish. Plus, the pastry team is offering apple, pumpkin, cranberry-cherry, and pecan pies for pre-order through Nov. 20. 

La Food Marketa: No one does comfort food quite like the team behind this Pikesville haunt and its sister-spot, The Food Market, in Hampden. Place orders by Nov. 22 to get in on sous-vide turkey breast, roasted Brussels with cranberries and pecans, acorn squash with honey and pumpkin seeds, pumpkin pie with torched marshmallow, and more. 

Little Havana: This South Baltimore favorite has plenty of options to help you eat and drink your way through the holiday. To-go drinks include boxed wine, seltzers, beers, and house-mixed cocktails. But be sure to line your stomach with meal packages that include turkey, mashed potatoes, dinner rolls, cranberry sauce, and slices of pie. 

Rye Street Tavern: Elevated takes on American classics is what this Port Covington favorite does best. Feeding up to six people, the tavern’s takeaway feast includes an autumn greens salad, curried pumpkin soup, Amish turkey with confit stuffing, chipotle scallion cornbread, blood orange cranberry sauce, Sagamore rye-spiked gravy, sweet-and-sour collard greens, and roasted pumpkin pie on a gingersnap crust. 

Soul Kuisine: Choose from a la carte sides or an all-inclusive dinner at this Station North spot. The aptly named restaurant will highlight soul food specialties such as turkey wings, cornbread stuffing, sweet potato pie, rum cake, and vanilla pound cake. 

Twist Fells Point: Head to this Fells Point spot to pick up a family meal for four that highlights slow-roasted turkey, herbed gravy, sweet potatoes with marshmallows, and fresh handmade pies. 

Woodberry Kitchen: Woodberry has been updating its market menu with prepared meals for carryout throughout the pandemic, and Thanksgiving is no different. Dishes for the table include buttered cabbage, cast iron cornbread, old-school mashed potatoes, simmered sauerkraut, and dry-brined whole turkey. Plus, the restaurant is offering individually packaged plates for optimal safety, as well as an option to pay it forward and feed someone in need this holiday. 

—Courtesy of Woodberry Kitchen

Delectable Desserts

Bramble Baking Co.: Chef Allie Smith’s scratch-made pies are surefire potluck pleasers. Pre-order varieties such as apple cheddar rye, cranberry chamomile buttermilk, or whiskey maple pecan to pick up at Local Color Flowers on Nov. 25. To raise awareness about the origins of the holiday, Smith is donating ten percent of all proceeds to the International Indigenous Youth Council, which creates safe spaces for indigenous youth through education, spiritual practice, and civic outreach. 

Cake by Jason: Swing by this Timonium bakeshop to pick up sweets from local pastry chef extraordinaire Jason Hisley. A special holiday menu lists Thanksgiving-themed cupcakes (think everything from cherry pie to pumpkin chocolate chip), scratch-made pies, and take-and-bake pie kits that families can assemble together at home. 

The Charmery: In what should come as a surprise to absolutely no one, The Charmery is going all out with festive dessert options for the holiday. Among them are the shop’s signature ice cream pies in flavors such as spiced pumpkin caramel, brown sugar molasses pecan, “Nanner Puddin’” cheesecake, and a vegan harvest cranberry pie with pear and pistachio. Orders are available for delivery or pickup from the Hampden, Towson, or Federal Hill locations.  

Little Fig Bake Shop: If you’re in search of dishes for a plant-based spread, this local vegan pop-up has you covered. Sweet and savory goodies to look out for include chai chocolate chip cookies, bake-at-home cinnamon buns, pumpkin roll, potato and leek puffs, cashew mac and cheese, and fried chik’n pieces.  

Motzi Bread: Order delicious pies while supporting good causes with the help of this Charles Village bakeshop. All proceeds from Motzi’s apple whiskey, purple sweet potato, and chocolate pumpkin pies (minus ingredient costs) will be donated to Black-led and indigenous organizations this year.

Pies from Cake by Jason. —Courtesy of Cake by Jason

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Chefs Team Up With the Franciscan Center for a Special Restaurant Week https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/chefs-team-up-with-the-franciscan-center-for-a-special-restaurant-week/ Wed, 04 Nov 2020 19:39:45 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=99772 Continued]]> Chef Helena del Pesco has been working with the Franciscan Center—the largest soup kitchen in Central Maryland—since she opened her restaurant, Larder, across the street from the facility on Maryland Avenue more than a year ago.

So when the Franciscan Center’s executive director Jeffery Griffin approached her with the idea to organize a special restaurant week for clients in need, Del Pesco immediately jumped on board. And a half a dozen other local restaurants followed suit.

“All of them said yes,” Griffin says. “In fact, we had to turn down one or two.”

The Franciscan Center has been providing Baltimoreans in need with hot meals, clothing, health screenings, and counseling services for decades. But when COVID-19 hit, the Old Goucher-based facility felt a greater responsibility to provide those essentials to the community. Since March, its team has produced more than 260,000 meals, working six to seven days a week to feed as many people as possible.  

This week’s event—running Nov. 2-6—invites chefs from Larder, Aldo’s, Red Star, Bo Brooks, and Terra Cafe to take over the center’s kitchen for a day and prepare dishes for clients in need. 

Though the restaurants have been given creative freedom to put their own signature spins on the meals, the main ingredient of the week will be chicken, in an attempt to utilize the center’s recent poultry surplus. For example, Larder is preparing a saffron chicken with basmati rice and a winter salad on Wednesday, Bo Brooks is incorporating seafood into a Chicken Chesapeake on Thursday, and Terra Café will serve jerk chicken with rice and sautéed greens on Friday. 

Del Pesco says that, as diners continue to eat at home due to the pandemic, piling up on surplus food has become more common. 

“When things shut down, we were getting some pretty big donations from some of our vendors who just needed to move product,” she says, “and it was more than we could use.” 

Larder used some of the excess food to provide meals for workers on the front lines, and also began donating to the Franciscan Center. In exchange, the center shared some of its excess produce from local farms. It blossomed into a mutually beneficial partnership, and a great example of how local dining establishments continue to support one another during these challenging times.  

“They had more produce than they could give away or cook for people and they didn’t want it to go bad, so they’ve been sharing that with some of the restaurants,” Del Pesco says. “It’s been really helpful for us.”

Not only will the restaurant week allow these spots to gain exposure and serve those in need, but it’s also an opportunity for some of the center’s workers to get a little break, too.

“In many ways it’s outreach to the restaurants to let them know about a great place,” says Red Star owner Chris Hannon, who also co-owns Bo Brooks with his sister, Tracey Newman, and has been working with the center for four years.  

Inspired by other dining destinations throughout the city, the center has established heated outdoor tents to help clients feel more comfortable while dining at the facility. Steven Allbright, the Franciscan Center’s culinary director, says that clients are excited to try meals from other chefs, and that they are highly anticipating the week’s dishes.   

“Just being able to come in from the cold for 15 to 20 minutes to eat a meal is going to have an impact on how they feel each day,” Allbright says. “That’s the great part—to know that they can come here and get that.” 

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Open & Shut: Thacher & Rye; Suspended Brewing; Hollins Market https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/open-thacher-rye-suspended-brewing-hollins-market/ Thu, 22 Oct 2020 19:56:34 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=99132 Continued]]> OPEN 

Thacher & Rye: Top Chef alum Bryan Voltaggio has switched things up at his Market Street mainstay in downtown Frederick. The former home of Voltaggio’s Volt recently reopened as Thacher & Rye, offering a fresh twist on the chef’s New American style. Now open with traditional dining room service—as well as outdoor seating on the heated patio with strung lights overhead—the restaurant highlights prime cuts of meat, fish and seafood dishes, and Voltaggio’s signature pastas like a golden sage ravioli with local goat cheese and a smoked brisket lasagna. A lengthy beverage menu offers Maryland beers, seasonal cocktails, and wines from around the world.   

Cowboy Row: Speaking of rebrands, the team at the former Plug Ugly’s Publick House on O’Donnell Square in Canton is finally ready to reveal their new concept, Cowboy Row. The Southern saloon will host an official grand opening party on Friday, October 23 to reveal interior upgrades (think cowhide, black leather booths, red LED lights, and a turf-covered patio) and a brand new menu. Eats to look out for include bacon-wrapped shrimp, beer can barbecue chicken, a veggie burger topped with sliced avocado, and hand-cut steaks. 

Cielo Verde: In the midst of moving Alma Cocina Latina into the old Pen & Quill space in Station North, co-owner Irena Stein has reopened Cielo Verde, her catering space inside the American Visionary Art Museum. Currently, the museum is adhering to safety guidelines and adjusting the capacity for parties based on current restrictions. Stein has officially begun hosting small private gatherings, micro weddings, elopements, and private holiday parties. See more information, here

Hollins Market: After being closed for months due to interior improvements and the impact of COVID-19, Hollins Market in Southwest Baltimore officially reopened earlier this month. And officials with Baltimore Public Markets are celebrating the return by partnering with Bmore Flea to host a series of pop-up craft fairs outside the market every Saturday in October. Inside, visitors will notice upgraded (and socially distanced) common seating areas, as well as new windows that allow for natural light throughout the space. Familiar vendors Eddie’s Lunch, L&R Produce, Lauman’s Meats, Mike’s Breakfast and Lunch, and Taste of the Orient have returned to feed the community, and later this fall the market will welcome new faces including Hollins Poultry, Dancing Potato, and a beer and wine concept from the owners of The Back Yard. Additional tenant stalls and more phased improvements will be in the works throughout 2021. 

Suspended Brewing at Whitehall Market: Just when we thought we couldn’t love Whitehall Market any more—the Hampden food hall has added Pigtown’s Suspended Brewing to its roster of tenants. Starting today, the eco-conscious brewery will set up shop inside the market to pour pints by the glass and offer bottles to-go on Thursdays and Fridays from  3-7 p.m. and Saturdays and Sundays from 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Stop by this weekend to celebrate with a glass of Stanza, the brewery’s new rosé-inspired, lightly fruited release.

COMING SOON

Cindy Lou’s Fish House: The latest Foreman Wolf restaurant is set to open its doors inside the Canopy by Hilton Baltimore hotel at Harbor Point on Tuesday, October 27. Featuring a relaxed dining room and outdoor patio seating, the destination is inspired by the deep connections that co-owners Tony Foreman and chef Cindy Wolf have to Southern cuisine. Among the regional offerings are chicken fried steak, fried chicken with buttermilk biscuits, and seafood chowder. The menu also showcases a nod to the mid-Atlantic with jumbo lump crab cakes and crab fluff. Catch an exclusive sneak peek inside the space, here

NEWS

The Admiral’s Cup: As Atlas Restaurant Group prepares to debut its new French brasserie and dinner theater concept, Monarque, in Harbor East on October 26, its owners have also taken over this centuries-old Fells Point corner bar best known for its nightly live music. The Baltimore Business Journal reports that Atlas CEO Alex Smith is part of a new ownership group that includes Admiral’s Cup general manager Darin Mislan and Eric Mathias, who owns The Horse You Came In On Saloon across the street. Though the menu is in for an upgrade, the bar’s lively atmosphere—including its live music performances seven days a week—isn’t expected to change. 

EPICUREAN EVENTS

10/23: CFF Passion for Food and Wine Chef Masterclass
The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation has put a virtual spin on its annual Passion for Food & Wine fundraiser this year. Switch up your typical Friday-evening takeout routine by participating in a streaming masterclass led by chef-owner Ben Lefenfeld of La Cuchara. Attendees will pick up a package of ingredients (including a bottle of wine and Tito’s cocktails) from the restaurant and cook along with Lefenfeld to prepare a four-course meal including pumpkin soup with sage brown butter and chicken empanadas with salsa verde. 

10/28: Cheese and Candy: A Spooktacular Evening with Firefly Farms
At first glance, these two foods might not look like a great match. But the experts at Firefly Farms inside Whitehall Market are hosting an entire event that focuses on chocolates as a perfect pairing for its signature cheeses. The safely distanced Halloween celebration will require masks and offer room for 175 participants at tables spaced at least 12 feet apart.

10/29: Pumpkin Party Cooking Class with Gundalow Gourmet
If you can’t get enough of the autumn-inspired tutorials at Whitehall Market, snag a ticket to this pumpkin cooking class led by Dana Sicko of Gundalow Gourmet. The menu for the evening will include pumpkin soup, pumpkin ricotta ravioli, and pumpkin pot de creme. Similar to Firefly’s cheese class, distancing protocols will be in place and masks and gloves will be worn at all times.

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Cindy Lou’s Fish House Brings Southern-Inspired Staples to Harbor Point https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/cindy-lous-fish-house-brings-southern-inspired-staples-to-harbor-point/ Wed, 21 Oct 2020 13:00:08 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=98925

Against the backdrop of the Patapsco River, with the iconic Domino Sugar refinery sign in the distance and boats bobbing against the horizon, Cindy Lou’s Fish House—the latest restaurant from Tony Foreman and chef Cindy Wolf of Foreman Wolf Restaurant Group—has finally come to fruition after many years in the making.

The Harbor East restaurant is situated inside the new Canopy by Hilton Baltimore at 1215 Wills Street (part of the Harbor Point development across the Central Avenue Bridge) and is set to open on October 27

The project is a partnership between the hotel’s co-owner Michael Beatty, President of Beatty Development Group, and Foreman and Wolf—who are all longtime friends.

“Cindy and Tony have been close friends of ours for almost as long as my wife and I have been in Baltimore,” Beatty says. “It’s been exciting to see them develop this new concept at Harbor Point—their passion is contagious.”

Cindy Lou’s Fish House will be Southern focused, highlighting regionally inspired staples such as chicken fried steak, fried chicken with buttermilk biscuits, and seafood chowder. The menu also offers a nod to the mid-Atlantic with jumbo lump crab cakes and crab fluff. (“The chicken fried steak has been in my head for years,” says Foreman.)

In many ways, the project is a full circle moment for Foreman and Wolf, who first opened Savannah inside the Admiral Fell Inn in Fells Point after working together at Southern spot Georgia Brown’s in Washington, D.C. “That’s a connection between us as human beings,” says the James Beard-nominated Wolf, who first researched the food and folkways of the South for the menu at Georgia Brown’s. “Tony and I both love things that are Southern.”

“This is not hotel food in any way,” she adds. “And, hopefully, that’s the beauty of it.”

Chef Cindy Wolf and Tony Foreman inside the relaxed dining room.

For his part, Foreman’s family also has deep ties to the South. His great-grandmother, Annie Ross Harrison, hailed from Zebulon, North Carolina (not to mention she was crowned Miss North Carolina in 1908). “I love it, I grew up on it,” he says.  “I still have my grandmother’s quilt and chicken-frying pan.”

Foreman’s great-grandmother, whom he called “Nanny,” was a true southern cook. “She was the third child of 17,” he says, “so her mother was very busy, and she did all the cooking. She made the basic stuff. Pan-fried fish—it could be perch or trout whatever she found at Lexington Market—collard greens, always rice, always cornbread. I remember visiting her on Saturdays and helping her cook dinner, which was always from 3-4 p.m., shucking corn or oysters, depending on the season, or helping make pickles.” In fact, Nanny’s pickles make an appearance on the menu (for sale by the jar and also as part of a shared snack plate).

 

“I am a Southerner, and I love the history of the cooking. They understand the joy of the table there.” —Chef Cindy Wolf

 

For the Richmond-born Wolf—who got her start as a garde-manger in Charleston, SC at Silks, a high-end Low Country cuisine restaurant inside the legendary Planter’s Inn—Southern cooking is the regional cuisine that’s nearest and dearest to her heart.

“This region is extremely important to me from a family standpoint,” says Wolf, whose family moved to Charleston when she was 19. “I am a Southerner, and I love the history of the cooking. They understand the joy of the table there. It is truly American food, but it is influenced by West Africans and Western Europeans—there was a huge French presence in Charleston due to the Huguenots fleeing France.”

The stunning space—refined, yet relaxed—designed by San Francisco-based BraytonHughes Design Studios is meant to mirror what Foreman calls “a relaxed happiness in the food.” When Foreman first discussed the décor with the design firm, his edict was to invoke the idea of “a friend who has this great apartment on the water where you can sit in the dining room, get a drink at the bar, go watch TV, go to sleep upstairs, or go out on the patio,” says Foreman. “That’s what this is. You walk into the space and you know you’re going to feel cared for, even if you don’t go anywhere afterward.”

Above: Details such as dark metals, copper light fixtures, and wooden touches act as deliberate nods to the industrial history of the waterfront neighborhood.

To that end, the dining room—with its wooden touches, dark metals, and copper light fixtures that act as deliberate nods to the industrial history of the waterfront neighborhood—is comfortable and inviting. Bookshelves lined with books, leather chairs, upholstered banquettes, oversized fireplaces, TV’s, a billiards table, and command views of the water also encourage lingering.

The duo is hoping that the restaurant, which will serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner, will appeal not only to tourists, but also act as a community gathering space for locals.

“When they said, ‘What do you want it to look like and feel like?’ I said, ‘I want it to feel like I want to live there,’” says Foreman. “Every hotel that I’ve ever gone to where the food is good, where the service is good, where they make me feel welcome, makes me want to live there. That’s what I wanted here.”

To staff Cindy Lou’s, Foreman Wolf positioned many familiar faces from their other properties. Among them are chef Ryan Shaffner, the former executive sous chef at Cinghiale; bartender Andrew Dissen, previously of Charleston; and dining room managers Jamila “Jimi” Jefferson and Andrew Bernstein, who both most recently worked at Cinghiale.

And as for the restaurant’s moniker of “Cindy Lou’s,” a reference to the protagonist in Dr. Seuss’s How the Grinch Stole Christmas!, it started as a placeholder.

“I called Cindy and told her the name, and that it was just a working title until I could think of something better,” Foreman says, with a laugh. “But I never came up with anything better than that. It’s an homage to Cindy.”

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Open & Shut: Cheezy Mike’s; Toki Tako; CJ’s Crab House and Grill https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/uncategorized/open-shut-cheezy-mikes-toki-tako-cjs-crab-house/ Thu, 08 Oct 2020 19:58:31 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=98417 Continued]]> OPEN 

Cheezy Mike’s: Local DJ Mike Jointz is creating remixes of classic carryout favorites with this new venture at Mount Vernon Marketplace. The so-called “food emporium” celebrated its grand opening earlier this week, offering filling snacks, vegan options, and melty grilled cheese sandwiches. Swing by the new stall to sample dishes that highlight the namesake ingredient, including cheesesteak egg rolls, Bavarian pretzel dog bites with beer cheese dipping sauce, a garlic French dip sandwich, and a pomegranate molasses grilled cheese with melted gruyere. 

COMING SOON

Toki Tako: The Local Fry owners Kevin and Elizabeth Irish are preparing to debut a new Korean barbecue concept just three doors down from their beloved French fry-and-wing spot at the Rotunda in Hampden. Toki Taco will put a unique spin on authentic Korean barbecue meats by stuffing them inside handheld tacos and lettuce wraps. Designed by Pavlina Ilieva and Kuo Pao Lian of local PI.KL Studio, the eatery will evoke the spirit of Seoul with light wooden furniture, subway tiles, and interior greenery. Be on the lookout for the grand opening in the coming weeks. 

NEWS 

Cosima Welcomes Chef Anthony Franklin: There’s new blood in the kitchen at Cosima in Hampden. Executive chef Anthony Franklin—formerly of Penny Black in Fells Point—has hit the ground running in his new post at the Sicilian spot in Mill No. 1, whipping up seasonal dishes such as an almond-crusted sea bass and grilled lamb chops served with a warm kale salad. Since starting at Cosima, Franklin was also voted a finalist in the virtual Farm to Chef competition benefiting TasteWise Kids. “I am constantly pushing myself to step out of my comfort zone and bring something new to the table that guests have not yet experienced,” Franklin, a native of Queens, New York, said in a statement “Cooking is so personal, and I’m looking forward to putting my own spin on some of the traditional menu items as well as introducing our guests to some new offerings.” 

EPICUREAN EVENTS

10/11: Big Softy at Don’t Know Tavern
Federal Hill favorite Don’t Know Tavern continues its series of community pop-ups with a visit from chef Craig Falk this weekend. The brains behind Big Softy will be stopping by to serve game-day eats such as crab quiche, a McSofty Rib Sandwich on brioche with house sauce and apple slaw, and Falk’s famous shrimp salad. If you’re planning a watch party at home, the menu also features pre-packaged crab cakes that you can pick up and broil before kickoff. Pre-orders are now live, here.

To 10/31: Lake Trout at Fishnet
Last month, Fishnet owner Keyia Yalcin wrote a beautiful op-ed for The Afro that details how her experience visiting The Roost (aka Lake Trout)—a Baltimore staple on Reisterstown Road for more than 25 years—inspired her to grow her own business. As a tribute to the restaurant, Yelcin will be serving its namesake Maryland delicacy (fried in a zesty cornmeal batter on top of white bread with hot sauce) at her stall inside Mount Vernon Marketplace throughout the entire month. And to further pay homage to The Roost owner Doris Williams, $2 from every Lake Trout platter sold will be donated to Just Call Me Chef—chef Catina Smith’s advocacy organization that supports local Black female chefs and restaurateurs. 

SHUT

CJ’s Crab House and Grill: Owings Mills locals were saddened to hear that this decades-old crab house was the latest community establishment to shutter in the wake of COVID-19. The owners took to Facebook to confirm the closure last week, thanking their team and longtime customers for their support. “We are especially grateful to the community that has made CJ’s steamed crabs and strawberry pie a part of their summer for the past 43 years,” the post reads. CJ’s was a go-to for classic crab feasts, grilled sandwiches and burgers, and the famous lump crab pizza. 

Peko Peko Ramen: Ramen regulars in Charles Village are going to be searching for a new eatery to help them warm up this season. After taking some time to reflect, the owners of Peko Peko closed their Tokyo-style shop last week in an effort to pursue other projects. “We’re incredibly proud of what we’ve been able to accomplish,” reads a post to Facebook. “We’re proud to have served bowls of ramen made from scratch. We’re proud to have worked with a diverse staff, comprised of local Baltimoreans and students from all over the country. We’re proud to have been a part of Charles Village’s budding food scene, and Baltimore’s as well. But we’ve had some time to think, and it’s time for something new.” There’s no word yet on what will become of the East 33rd Street storefront near the Johns Hopkins Homewood campus—which was well known for its DIY ramen, rice bowls, and matcha milk teas. 

 

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Kitsch Cafe is Bringing Quality Egg Sandwiches to Tuscany-Canterbury https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/kitsch-cafe-egg-sandwiches-tuscany-canterbury/ Tue, 06 Oct 2020 14:55:13 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=98318

Those hoping to start their day with a delicious egg sandwich in Tuscany-Canterbury will soon need to look no further.

Kitsch, a cafe offering griddled egg sammies, La Colombe coffee, a small selection of pastries, and locally sourced snacks, is aiming to open the week of October 12 on the ground floor of The Carlyle Apartment Homes on West University Parkway near the Johns Hopkins University Homewood campus. Owner Jacqueline Mearman, former executive pastry chef for Atlas Restaurant Group, and her team will serve up quality egg sandwiches—as well as some non-traditional specials.

“We’ve got a few surprises,” Mearman says. “It won’t just be all egg and cheese.”

The cafe is using bread from Stone Mill Bakery that will be griddled (instead of toasted) using Made In cookware on induction burners, “so that we have a really consistent product,” Mearman says. “With our experience in fine dining, that’s the goal, even if it’s an egg sandwich, it still needs to be a quality product.”

Customers can build their own sandwiches and select different cheeses, meats, and veggies. A rotating specialty sandwich will always be on the menu, and will probably be “a little over the top,” according to Mearman.

Although Mearman has previously worn many hats within the restaurant industry—including working as a sous chef and even a distiller—most of her career thus far has focused on pastry. In keeping with that background, there will, of course, be a limited selection of sweet treats.

“I am doing a very small pastry offering because I don’t think I’d be able to get away with not doing it,” she says with a laugh.

Expect desserts such as a to-go cheesecake trifle made with local chutneys and a fudge-like chocolate bar filled with butterscotch, pretzels, and marshmallows.

Speciality coffee roaster La Colombe, out of Philadelphia, will provide the coffee, but Mearman says just about everything else will be sourced from around the region—including the hand sanitizer, which comes from Mount Royal Soaps in Remington. Wild Kombucha products, from Mobtown Fermentation, will also be available. Other locally sourced snacks include Capitol Kettle Corn out of College Park and beef jerky from Landcrafted Food out of Southwest Virginia. (Mearman says the Cajun-flavored sticks are a can’t-miss.)

All will be easy to grab-and-go out of Kitsch’s 400-square-foot space, which Mearman is renovating herself.

She says that the cafe’s inception was nothing short of serendipitous. The concept came after seeing the space, which went up for rent at a low price while Mearman and her partner, also a chef, were quarantining in their home—which is very close by—this spring and summer. The size and location of the space, coupled with the makeup of the neighborhood, called for something easy and efficient, but still delicious.

When the space became available, it was also a time when the restaurant industry was very much in flux due to shutdowns from COVID-19.

“We knew and accepted that we were going back into an industry that was going to be a complete 180,” Mearman says. “And it was very disheartening.”

She made it one month back at her previous job before she realized it wasn’t nearly the same, and some of the issues facing the restaurant industry were more prominent than ever.

“This is something that [famed Momofuku founder] David Chang is talking about a lot right now—that our industry, in more recent years, even before COVID-19, is kind of going off the rails,” Mearman says, “We have employees that don’t make livable wages. A lot of times they don’t really have training available to them to move up. It’s just something that’s been talked about in the restaurant industry for the last few years. Why are we working 70 hours a week? Why don’t we have lives? Why don’t we have time for our families and our kids, if we have them?”

Mearman sees Kitsch as a place to start changing the narrative, and to create a better work-life balance for herself and her staff. She supports raising the federal minimum wage to $15, and plans to pay that rate to her employees. Her workers will also all begin at the same level and learn every task required to make Kitsch run smoothly.

The cafe also has a community-focused mission, with one percent of proceeds benefitting two local organizations dedicated to health education.

“We really believe in the city,” Mearman says. “If I can just create five jobs for people that don’t have them right now because of what’s happened [with COVID-19], or give a little bit to these organizations so they have just some way of growing and improving our community, then I’m happy. That’s the most important part to us.”

Kitsch will be open 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Saturday. But Mearman hints that once breakfast gets rolling, she won’t stop there. She has plans to host an evening pop-up inside Kitsch down the road. Stay tuned.

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Without Reservation: Chef Mark Levy of Magdalena https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/without-reservation-mark-levy-of-magdalena-talks-new-concept/ Thu, 01 Oct 2020 17:52:42 +0000 https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=98164 Continued]]> After a seven-month hiatus from his post as the executive chef at Magdalena inside Mt. Vernon’s Ivy Hotel, Mark Levy is more than ready to get back into the kitchen. “It’s been an interesting seven months,” he says. “I took advantage of the time and played a lot of golf. In July, I hit my first-ever hole-in-one.” In addition to playing golf, Levy has been busy refining a new concept and regionally inspired menu for Magdalena—now named Magdalena, A Maryland Bistro—which is reopening on October 9. The focus, says Levy, will be casual, with carryout also available. “I always wanted people to come in five, six times a year, but at that price point, it was more like twice a year,” Levy says. “Now, I hope we will see a lot more people.” 

We spoke with Levy about turtle soup, bistro cooking, and his first-ever snowball experience.

Take me back to mid-March, as you were closing the restaurant. Did you have any idea it would be such a long haul?
I had taken a vacation and went home [to England]. I was in Rome with my family and I pulled out because I was concerned about getting back to the States. I came back from my vacation, and within five days of being back, we were closed. We knew it was coming. It was pretty awful, as it was for everyone else.

Why did you decide to change the concept?
Once the dust had settled, we saw an opportunity to do something different that would be more relevant with the current climate. We talked a lot about what the new concept was going to be. I’ve been doing fine-dining for 12 years now, and for eight of the 12 years prior was doing gastropub work and rustic bistro food, so it was really quite natural for me to go back to something that I was already successful at. It was natural to switch the products from 75 percent international and national and 25 percent local and just flip that on its head to 75 percent local and 25 percent national and international. I said, “Let’s simplify and change the price point, and let’s be a little more rustic and more from the heart instead of the brain this time.” We put together six or seven goes to get the menu right, but trying to move away from a more fine-dining mentality was trickier than I thought. Once we got that together, I started making trips to the Eastern Shore and to local farms to see what we could do at Magdalena.

 

“I said, ‘Let’s be more from the heart instead of the brain this time.’”

 

All restaurants have a shelf life and organic evolution. Do you agree with that?
Fifteen years ago, my ego would have gotten in the way and I would have said, “Like it or leave it,” but to get a second bite of the cherry, to keep my job and work in this beautiful hotel and kitchen, I’m one of the luckiest blokes out there.

Post pandemic, will we see less fine-dining spots?
I’ve been told that fine-dining is dead for the last 20 years—that’s all you hear people say. Then you get people in Chicago, like Curtis Duffy [who just opened Ever.] It’s always going to have a place. There is probably going to be less of it, but it’s never going to die. 

Can you talk about how you developed the regional side of the menu?
The first thing was finding the right products to see what was available. Sometimes the idea of Maryland food is quite obvious with Berger cookies, crab cakes, and snowballs, and I said, “Let’s dig a little bit deeper.” I picked up a book called My Favorite Maryland Recipes by Helen Tawes and found some really interesting stuff. I looked up turtle soup. I knew I wouldn’t be serving turtle, but it allowed me to really see that history of the Eastern Shore, not just Maryland. When the terrapins were all gone, they’d use a veal head. I decided to come up with my own version using veal cheeks and have the same flavor profile as this thing that was made 100 years or so ago. 

I didn’t want to flood the menu with all of these things, but I thought there would be a couple of nice dishes that we could keep on for people to get a true taste of—like the Southern Maryland-stuffed ham, where they would stuff the collard greens inside it. So we will come up with a version of that. There are also little touches of England, like fish and chips and some classic French stuff. That’s how I feel the balance is going to work. There will always be crab on the menu—we have a crab cake and will continue to play with crab. I’m good friends with the people at The Brewer’s Art and we are going to use Beazly for the beer batter, so there’s a little piece of Maryland in there, as well.

 

“Sometimes the idea of Maryland food is quite obvious with Berger cookies, crab cakes, and snowballs, and I said, ‘Let’s dig a little bit deeper.’”

 

Did you have to redo the kitchen?
Being a bistro, we had to do fries, so we ordered a new fryer. We also added a snowball machine. We are going to wait until summer to really get that going. This summer was the first time I ever ate one. I was pleasantly surprised. I like the chocolate and the marshmallow and the crushed ice. I’m like, “I don’t know why this works, but it’s delicious.” We might do a few alcoholic versions for the bar and we’re going to use the ice from the machine for oysters, as well.

Why did you want to focus on sourcing locally?
The main drive is that I keep hearing how farmers are struggling. I wanted to support them.

There are plenty of other Chesapeake-focused eateries in the Baltimore area. How will Magdalena stand out?
It’s going to be a bistro, but we are still Magdalena—we are inside of The Ivy Hotel and Relais & Châteaux. As a rule, you want to experience the terroir of where you are. I really feel this works hand-in-hand with the hotel, the history of the building, Baltimore, and Maryland—that’s the big difference is that we are a hotel and not just a freestanding restaurant.

 

“To get a second bite of the cherry, to keep my job and work in this beautiful hotel and kitchen, I’m one of the luckiest blokes out there.”

 

How does the décor carry the narrative?
We wanted to brighten the room and for it to be less busy. It feels a lot fresher and younger now and the color scheme is oyster, whiskey, and sage. To have a bistro, you have to have a certain buzz. We wanted it to feel like a luxury bistro.      

Why do restaurants matter?
Eating out is one of the last truly romantic things you can do. There’s nothing else like it. You sit down, you put your phone away, and you truly enjoy the food—it’s an escape.

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