Unlike many food events that try and hit the upscale end of the spectrum—canapes in little cups, wine pours, tiny precious tweezed food—night markets celebrate street food. Even if they’re not technically at night—or at least don’t start off that way—night markets tend to be boisterous, cheerful events more like bazaars or open-air food halls.
Next Saturday, Aug. 23, Ekiben will host its second night market, moving the event from Hampden to Fells Point.
This year, Ekiben co-founders Steve Chu and Ephrem Abebe are expanding the food fest, bringing in more than 40 restaurants, chefs, and makers not only from Baltimore, but also from Philadelphia, New York City, and D.C. There will also be shopping from artists and makers, as well as a nonstop live music lineup. The inspiration isn’t, say, Aspen’s Food & Wine event, but rather the famous night markets of Taiwan.
Between Ekiben’s street-food-y vibe and Chu’s culinary lineage—his grandmother ran a popular dumpling stall in Taiwan, and his father emigrated from Taiwan to Baltimore, where he opened a seafood restaurant—it’s a pretty perfect mash-up. Although Baltimore has other notable food events (including those hosted by this magazine—hint, hint, come celebrate with us), we’ve long needed a good night market, especially one as well-organized and fun as Ekiben’s was last year.
Saturday’s lineup is impressive. It includes not only local restaurants like Blacksauce Kitchen, Rooted Rotisserie, Alma Cucina Latina, Clavel, Pho Bac, Crust By Mack, La Cuchara, Cafe Dear Leon, and The Urban Oyster, but chefs like three-time James Beard Award-nominated Erik Bruner‑Yang (Maketto, Bar Providencia) from D.C., Philly’s Beard winner Peter Serpico (Serpico), NYC’s Beard semi-finalist Helen Nguyen (Saigon Social), and more.
All this will be happening not in a Hampden parking lot like last year, but on Thames Street’s rowhouse-and-cobblestone waterfront, where Ekiben got its start as a food cart over a decade ago.
There are a few things that are helpful to note before you go—other than getting tickets. As this is mid-August in Baltimore, prepare for likely very hot, very humid, weather. Though there will be drinks, lots of drinks, bring water and dress for heat, lines, standing, and crowds. In other words: prepare like you’re going to a summer game at Camden Yards.
Though it’s fun to go alone, it’s more fun to bring a friend, or three, for conversation and to compare and share food. Charge your phone for Instagram snaps (if you need inspiration, Ekiben’s IG is masterful). Most important: fast before you go. I know it’s Saturday, I know you love brunch, but resist. There is nothing as sad as being surrounded by world-class street food and not being hungry enough to enjoy it all.
Lastly, pace yourself. Enjoy the waterfront, chat up the folks behind the stalls, and be happy, very happy, that you live in Baltimore.