Food & Drink

Penny Candies are Priceless

A Catonsville candy shop has a rich assortment of retro treats that stir memories of simpler times.
—Photography by Justin Tsucalas

While the manufacturing of new pennies will cease sometime next year, the production of penny candy—those nostalgic treats from yesteryear—is far from disappearing.

It all started in 1879, when Frank Woolworth of F.W. Woolworth’s figured out how to sweeten a visit to his Utica, New York, store. As patrons browsed for everything from household goods to children’s toys, they passed by a colorful candy display offering one-cent treats.

Before Woolworth’s, the penny confections were sold at apothecaries and general stores, but the five-and-dime’s grand display made a visit to the store special, as customers flocked for Necco Wafers, Lemon Drops, and Rock Candy.

Today, penny candy can be hard to come by, but Pat’s Porch in Catonsville has a rich assortment of retro treats. Owner Beth Reymann opened her shop in 2016, taking over a century-old house that had been home to a candy store. While the previous owner passed away, she continued selling penny candy and also expanded her inventory to include Maryland-themed gifts.

If a penny candy exists, you’ll find it here—including candy cigarettes (called candy “sticks”), candy necklaces, Atomic fireballs, Dad’s root beer barrels, wax bottles, Zotz, Pixie Stix, and locally made Goetze caramel creams.

—Photography by Justin Tsucalas; Animation by Jon Timian

For her adult customers, says Reymann, who sources from a third-generation manufacturer in Myerstown, Pennsylvania, “It’s a trip down memory lane. I have kids who come multiple times a week. People keep buying the candy because it’s a good memory.”

In other words, the candy is only part of the appeal. For many, it stirs memories of a simpler time when a solo walk (or bike ride) to the corner store, plus a pocketful of change, offered a taste of freedom—and what’s sweeter than that?