Food & Drink

Open & Shut: Mr. Bingsoo; Liv’s Tavern; Teavolve

The latest restaurant openings, closings, and recent news.

OPEN

Mr. Bingsoo: This popular Korean shaved ice shop is back in business after a year-long closure. Known for its namesake creations piled high with fruit and condensed milk, Mr. Bingsoo has revamped its Fells Point shop just in time for late summer. In Korea, there’s a saying, “fight cold with cold, and heat with heat, which means that an icy bingsoo can be just as enjoyable in the winter as it is on a sweltering summer day.

Now under new management—operators also own nearby Kippo Ramen and Ramen Utsuke in the Inner Harbor—the spot quietly reopened on Aug. 22 at 522 S. Broadway. While many of the original menu staples—including the fruit-topped bingsoo, taiyaki (Japanese fish-shaped cakes), and Japanese-style fruit sandwiches—remain, there are plans to add more treats like crepes and bakery items soon. Former owner Daniel Kim has stayed on as a consultant during the transition, and longtime fans have already begun flocking back. 

Liv’s Tavern: Speaking of the flock, a new era has begun for Ravens fans in Federal Hill. Carrying the torch lit by Mother’s—a game-day institution for nearly 30 years—Liv’s Tavern is now open and taking reservations at 1113 S. Charles Street, just in time for the birds home opener against the Cleveland Browns on Sunday. An official grand opening is set for Friday, Sept. 26.

The refreshed concept comes from White Oak Hospitality—the team behind Wayward next door and Banditos, which operated across the street for 14 years. It’s named after co-owner Sean White’s daughter, Liv, whose resilience while battling leukemia inspired the spot. The reimagined tavern is meant to carry her joyful spirit forward, with a refreshed look and an upgraded Purple Patio that promises to remain the heartbeat of game-day celebrations.

No Land Beyond: ICYMI, the city’s first board game bar has officially debuted its new Station North home—inside an old funeral parlor connected to Graffiti Alley—and it’s ready to show it off. No Land Beyond will host a grand opening Oct. 3–5, inviting gamers to explore the expanded space filled with hundreds of titles, ample seating, and a refreshed cocktail list. In the interim, you can still visit while the team is in soft opening mode. A $5 table fee grants access to the bar’s massive game library. Plus, you can order from the full bar and kitchen menu curated by chef Casey Jarvis of Glizzys Wagyu Dogs. Post-grand opening, the owners plan to offer lunch service and waive the $5 cover during midday hours. 

NEWS

The Wren Tops The New York Times Best New Restaurant List: Shoutout to The New York Times for amplifying to the country what we already know: Baltimore has some of the best restaurants out there. This week, The Wren in Fells Point (read our full review, here) was named by the publication’s dining critics as one of the 50 Best Restaurants in America. “A perfect pub requires excellent draft beers, exquisite cocktails, great whiskeys, a few well-chosen wines, and food prepared with superb ingredients and meticulous care,” wrote The Times’ Eric Asimov. “The Wren must have been taking notes.” The writeup goes on to praise chef Will Mester’s rotating seasonal creations like duck rillettes, beef-and-ale pie, and a spring onion omelet.

CH-CH-CHANGES

Artifact Coffee: There’s a new chapter brewing at Artifact in Hampden. Opened in 2012 by then husband-and-wife duo Spike and Amy Gjerde, the café is now solely owned by Amy, following the couple’s separation in both marriage and business. Recent legal proceedings prompted the shift, with Spike retaining Woodberry Tavern while Amy takes full ownership of Artifact. Known for its Counter Culture coffee program and locally sourced menu, the Union Avenue spot isn’t changing overnight—but Amy says she’s eager to bring her own touch to the shop, from new furniture to additional events. While Spike’s Greenhouse sandwich may be phased out, the ethos of thoughtful food and hospitality remains. “It’s only going to get better,” Amy recently told The Banner.

Papillons Cocoon: Downtown’s Papillons Café, now called Papillons Cocoon, has moved one block from St. Paul Street to a new home at 10 North Calvert Street. The restaurant has embraced a moodier, speakeasy-inspired vibe in its relocation and rebrand, while keeping its signature French flair. Owners Monica and Larry Lee say the larger space—formerly Panther Bar—offers more foot traffic and room for events like brunch, karaoke, and open mic nights. They’re also offering a new membership program that highlights perks like VIP lounge access and exclusive event invites. On the menu, lighter bites like truffle fries and crab dip join mains including shrimp and grits, steak bites, and lamb chops.

EPICUREAN EVENTS 

10/9: True Chesapeake x Old Westminster Brine Launch Party
Old Westminster Winery has debuted Brine, a crisp Vinho Verde–style blend created in tribute to the Chesapeake and its oysters. And what better pairing for a wine that honors oysters than the actual bivalves themselves? To celebrate, Old Westminster is teaming up with True Chesapeake Oyster Co. for a launch party at the Hampden restaurant on Thursday, Oct. 9.

A $70 ticket includes bottomless pours and oysters, plus heavy hors d’oeuvres from chef Zack Mills of True Chesapeake and chef Tae Strain—Old Westminster’s executive chef partner who is also helming the menu at its newly opened sister farm, Burnt Hill, in Montgomery County. A dollar from every bottle of Brine—a mission-driven blend adhering to the sustainable ethos of both Old Westminster and True Chesapeake—sold will support the Oyster Recovery Partnership, which leads major restoration efforts across the Bay. 

SHUT

Teavolve Cafe: After nearly two decades, Teavolve Cafe will pour its final coffees and teas in Harbor East on Sept. 19. Owners Sunni Gilliam and Mondel “Del” Powell opened the concept in Fells Point in 2005 before relocating to Aliceanna Street in 2008, where the cafe pre-dated the many other dining destinations that now surround it in Harbor East and Harbor Point. Throughout the years, Teavolve was known not only as a reliable coffee and food spot for a meal or meeting, but also for its lively open mics and music showcases.

The pandemic shifted the business into a scaled-back café model, but it remained a beloved fixture through neighborhood change, recessions, and construction. The owners announced the closure in a heartfelt message posted to Instagram, which thanked customers. “While this journey is coming to an end, the bonds we’ve forged will endure,” the post reads. “We are so grateful for every warm smile, every shared story, and the privilege of being a part of your dining experience.” 

MOD Pizza: This build-your-own pizza chain has closed its doors after nearly a decade at The Rotunda in Hampden. The Seattle-based brand—one of the pioneers of the fast-casual, DIY pizza model—quietly shuttered in August, joining more than two dozen closures nationwide over the past year. With no other Baltimore City locations remaining, fans of MOD’s customizable pies will have to take a ride to Towson or Owings Mills. There’s no word yet on what will fill the void in the Rotunda’s restaurant lineup.